2. Parent/Teacher Conference
There are too many trade-offs with off-the-rack clothing, especially with suits. These days there are “custom” options for just about any budget.
For more info, along with tips on how to customize a suit for all body types, see our Comprehensive Guide to Buying Bespoke Clothing.
- A longer jacket will visually elongate the body.
- Darker colors are slimming, as are pinstripes.
- Try to keep your jacket buttoned as much as possible when standing, it shapes the silhouette.
- A deep button stance will create a stronger “V” shape, accentuating the chest and masking the belly.
- Go with a wider notch or peak lapel to draw the eye upward and proportionally cover your broad shoulders.
- Leave some room in the trousers so you’re not accentuating the girth of your upper body, but you don’t need a big sloppy break at the bottom.
- A strong shoe with a solid heel will help anchor down your look. I really like wingtips with a substantial sole for larger guys.
- Slanted pockets, in theory, draw the eye downward and are slimming on the physique.
- Use a ticket pocket to fill some space in the midsection.
- Your pants do not need pleats. If they’re made for you, flat front trousers should be plenty comfortable.
- Go with double vents. The jacket can be cut a little slimmer in the hips since side vents pulling open are much less obvious than a center one splitting. It also keeps a clean drape across the back when your hands are in your pockets.
- Odds are, you’re tough on your clothing. Opt for a heavier, more durable cloth but lose the lining to avoid overheating. A second pair of trousers may also be a good idea as they tend to wear out faster than the jacket.
- Keep your shirts simple and elegant. Think solid color and subtle stripes.
- Spread collar shirts should be matched with larger tie knots (like a windsor or half windsor), and both are ideal for a large neck.
- Larger guys often have shorter necks, have your shirts made with a shorter neckband
- Bigger guys typically have flat hips and seats, which causes their pants to fall down unless they are cinched unaturally tight around the waist (which accentuates the stomach). Try using braces to float your waistline – they’re generally more comfortable, and stylish too.
- Grey suit by Michael Andrews Bespoke
- Pocket square by Pierre Cardin
- Navy striped tie No label
- Silver tie bar Vintage
- Striped socks by H&M
- Brown leather loafers Vintage by Florsheim
- Watch by Kenneth Cole
- Blue microcheck shirt by Michael Andrews Bespoke