A blue blazer is a blue blazer, right? Not really.
With so many quality new designers hitting the menswear market, there are “blazers” available to suit just about any occasion. It’s important to know the differences and have jackets in a range of constructions and fabrics.
To illustrate this point, I’m contrasting two jackets by wearing the exact same outfit, changing only the jacket between two looks.
This first blazer has the properties of a typical, well-made, suit jacket – in fact it is one.
1. Fully Lined and Refined
Fully canvased, fully lined, medium shoulder pad, extra-roped shoulder, peak lapels (w/ two lapel button holes), double vents, in a blue/grey subtle shadow plaid 8oz Loro Piana Super 130s wool/mohair.
This jacket, because of its structure and fabric, is inherently “dressy”. It’s cut sharp and drapes clean over the body, giving a sleek, clean-line silhouette.
- Brown Leather Belt by Banana Republic
- Blue shadow plaid suit jacket by Michael Andrews Bespoke
- Brown striped tie by Ralph Lauren Black Label
- Brown suede captoe lace-ups by To Boot NY
- Khaki cotton chinos by Ralph Lauren Polo
- Lavender hairline stripe shirt by Michael Andrews Bespoke
- Silver 2″ tie bar by Tiffany & Co
- Tortoiseshell sunglasses by Persol
20 Comments Add a comment
Does anyone know where I can get an unlined jacket like the Theory one? I already own a khaki one, but really want a navy and I’m having trouble finding one.
More jackets like this one you can find in Urban Outfitters stores. Or Saks Fifth Avenue stores.
I really like that last shot – perfect!
You show off the jacket and there’s something about it – either the tie/shirt combo… but I think it’s more like “I love what I’m wearing”.. Great stuff — thanks SB
Nice post! I really like your blog, your style is really great. The 2 blazers really changed the whole mood of your look.
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What’s with the basket on the bike Dorothy?
HAPPY BIRDAY DAN!!!!! YOUR LONG TIME FAN.
Happy Birthday indeed!
Great post SB! I need to keep these things in mind as I move towards my first suit purchase (coming soon!). Outfits look great as always, man!
Really like the unconstructed blazer. Been trying to find one with a decent fit and haven’t had any luck so far.
KIlling it like always, SB. Those shoes are awesome and you pulled off both looks well. Also gotta hand it to your new photographer. She’s doing a fantastic job.
I hope you’re paying your photographer decently, cause their doing a fantastic job.
YES! You finally buttoned up you jacket.
excellent educational piece.
photos are looking really well composed as well.
hey sb, great outfit, I’ve got a question tho. Whats the brand of the watch you are wearing in your third picture? The one with the brown leather band. I’ve got to say one more thing, your outfit is classic and good as it is, no doubt, but you need a fitting VINTAGE bike ;) I have build my own “retro” looking bike. if you want check out the pics under : http://trendzeta.blogspot.com/2010/05/bike-project-90-finished.html
its painted in Jaguar Racing Green and the people turn around whenever I pass them.
Cheers
MarcoBerlin
The watch he wears is always the same- a Montblanc Timewalker:
(http://www.montblanc.com/products/large_automatic_large_automatic.09673.php)
He just switches up the bands, a neat and thrifty trick he describes how to do here:
http://mensstyleblog.blogspot.com/2009/08/tip-of-day-refresh-your-band.html
sorry for the noob question,
but what is unconstructed mean?
Also, for venting, is there certain types of vents for different occasions (double vent is more formal?)
thanks!
Of course SB could probably give a more extensive answer and his opinion on this, but in my opinion/knowledge, if a blazer/suit jacket is “unconstructed” it is a general term that means that it is lacking certain structural detailing suit options, such as the mentioned “structured” or padded shoulder, shoulder roping, an inner lining, etc.- and also tends to have an accompanying simpler aesthetic (usually with style details such as notch lapels, no ticket pocket, less stiff or “structured” fabric such as cotton etc.)– so basically it just implies the jacket is more simple and easy; illustrating the point here of it being more inherently casual vs. formal
As for the venting, in the US, a single vent is more traditional, so I assume some traditionalists in the American culture may deem it more appropriate for formal occasions. At the same time, in the US, the double vent is thought to be more “modern”; but it does have its roots in traditional English suiting (but not for ex. with their tweed blazers, which were inherently less formal, and more for activities like hunting) originally allowing for easier hand access to the pant pockets (which in some cultures is/was not seen as impolite)– All that being said, I feel nowadays each is accepted as a viable option for a more formal suit, though the sleeker look of double vents make me give it the nod as being inherently more “formal” than the single vent, as Dan also implies here
thanks for the response!
I am very new to traditional fashion ( i thought i was doing it with nike dunks and matching pink shirts)
good one.. a lot of guys have no clue about this.. great new site btw..
Damn that was a great entry… I like all your new outfits way better than the ones on your old layout..
keep doing your thing…
I’m def. making my next tailor commisson a peaked lapel suit…
Nice!
Supposed this article should be written in the beginning of your blog.
Cor blimey, it’s a pair of bespoke cufflinks!