The most style-forward suit right now is double breasted, but it can be a little tricky to pull-off.
Here’s some tips on how to get the most out of it.
1. Monday Boardroom
Nothing conveys power and authority in the boardroom like a double breasted suit. It means business.
With that said, if you’re a first year analyst it’s probably not the best choice. Like bold pinstripes or flashy cufflinks, a DB suit is a right of passage that must be earned in corporate America.
The easiest DB to fit into your work week is solid navy blue. It’s the least flashy and most business appropriate color for a suit. It’s also super versatile and very flattering on just about any skin tone.
As always, fit is essential. The jacket needs to be slim through the body to avoid a wide looking frame. When buttoned (as it should be unless you’re sitting down) it should skim your sides, providing a tapered shape from the chest and shoulders to the midsection.
Avoid short or cropped jackets. A longer DB jacket looks more regal and avoids the boxy silhouette.
There are mutliple button stances for DB suits. I prefer the 6×2 (6 buttons x 2 that fasten). For smaller guys, a 4×2 or even 2×1 can be more flattering as it won’t suffocate the physique.
An easy way to ad a subtle flair to your suit: change the buttons. Navy suits typically come with black or dark brown horn buttons, I swapped for light tortoise shell to make this suit slightly more note-worthy.
A bossy suit calls for bossy shirts and shoes.
Like this cut-away banker shirt and Boardwalk Empire inspired spectators.
- Navy double breasted suit jacket by Michael Andrews Bespoke
- Brown striped cutaway banker shirt by Michael Andrews Bespoke
- Brown micro-houndstooth wool tie by JCrew
- White cotton pocket square
- Navy suit trousers by Michael Andrews Bespoke
- Watch by Montblanc Timewalker Automatic (42mm)
- Nato Striped grosgrain watch strap by Corvus
- Brown leather briefcase by Frank Clegg x Dan Trepanier
- Two-tone leather spectator wingtips by Scarpe di Bianco






51 Comments Add a comment
My brother suggested I might like this website. He was entirely right.
This post truly made my day. You can not imagine just how much time I had spent for this information!
Thanks!
All of these looks are great. My favorite however, would be the third one.
I need to get a navy DB asap. As you like hats, check out Goorin Bros for some excellent items.
I really don’t like your new look with so many facial hair
Hi Dan,
Ive followed your site for a while and this is another great look. Sadly I am probably too short (5″8′) to pull off the DB nearly so well :( Anyway, I am super thrilled that you’ve finally worn a Cutaway collar, I can’t do dress shirts without them anymore, I think they are just amazing.
New site looks great keep up the good work.
Is it me or do the Allen Edmonds look much more streamlined in these than normal? I always thought of them as a bit clunky but they look great here.
Great post once again!
Loving the new-look website too!
Do you any recommendations on how you could work this type of smart-casual friday look so that you can jump out straight from work and into the bars?
Amazing looks man. Bravo
The blue-brown tie and shirt combo with a textured jacket is priceless. Do you buy the separate pieces new or vintage? I see so many classics that I doubt I could find in a regular designer store. It almost seems pertinent to shop vintage in addition to designer.
Hey Jonathan. The check sport coat is bespoke…I love to design pieces myself so I can get the details just how I want them.
I agree though, mixing-in vintage pieces is key to a well rounded wardrobe.
Thx for reading.
When you reference a longer jacket it is important to give a concrete representation of what a longer jacket should be. The rule (that should never been broken for a classic look) is that one must casually drop his arms by his side and cuff his hands.
The hem of the jacket should rest in the palm of his hands, this is the accurate length for a jacket. If the hem of the jacket does not reach the palm…its too short and the vice.
It’s more complicated and personal than that, in my opinion.
The most flattering jacket length has to do with the wearer’s height, weight, shoulder width, arm length, torso proportion, etc.
Try to avoid these “one standard fits all” rules. It only matters what looks best on YOU.
What you say is merely a rule of thumb. People have different proportions in body shape; some have longer/shorter arms relative to their overall height. The ‘classical’ suit jacket length should just cover your seat, but if you’re short it’s beneficial to have it a tad higher. Current trend popularized by that Thom bloke is for jackets to be very short, which I reckon is naff and won’t last long.
When Friday hits you tern hillbilly….. Yikes. You had me most of the way. You need a new hat,ASAP.
Hah. The hat (and sweater) are not meant to be worn in the office for “casual Friday”…outerwear for the commute in Fall weather.
I have a collection of hats, but that one’s my favorite!
Thx for reading.
Seriously, how many pair of awesome shoes do you own? Totally jalous here…
I think it’s time to trim the beard a bit, keep it closer to your jaw bone. taylored clothes demands trimmed facial hairs…I think
I agree. The beard looks masculine and powerful, but slightly unattended-to. I believe it should parallel the shape of your face to simply increase your profile’s dominance, but not lose the natural composition of the man’s facial structure.
Just how I like it!
Thanks for reading and sharing Jonathan.
Don’t listen to all the naysayers…the beard is awesome! Keep it growing.
Thanks Kevin!
Hey Dan!
The new page is really came in awesome!!! Just a few comments: I´m currently in the process of buying my first custom-made suit, and I really can’t decide on my options… love the way you mixed and matched this look taking it from the professional side to the really casual laid back look. Any advice?
P.D. Your blog is really growing here in Mexico City and were loving the new content!!
Hmm. The more specific questions you ask, the more specific answers we can give…
Thanks for the love from Mexico City!
What possesses a ginger haired dude to go and grow and ginger beard. Good thing he’s a snappy dresser.
Hey Dan, another informative and insightful post. Top marks. But…got to say, the beard is a downer…too bushy; get rid of it, man. You’re too good looking to go the Ned Kelly/bush-ranger look.
On point as per. Your Di Bianco collection has grown exponentially–I sell them now and am very much looking forward to my first pair! Dan, would very much like to see another 3-piece mash up–do you ever incorporate a waistcoat from one suit with another? Or best 2 outta 3 waistcoat and trousers with a separate jacket? Just a thought because I’ve seen it done tastefully and not so much. Bredrin if anyone’s gonna do it…
Killin’ it as usual DT. I really dig the Saturday look, you paired the different hues of navy perfectly. What’s the secret to properly pairing navy on navy? Because I have a lot of great navy pieces but am hesitant about pairing it with my raw denim.
Love the site, love your style.
I know its honest and legit, because most times I see your updates I think “Nah, don’t care for this look.” And a week later I’m adding similar pieces to my wardrobe. So I thank you for that.
I do disapprove — highly — of the cigarette. You can say “I’m living my life, I’m free, I’m cool, yadda-yadda” but to me it absolutely ruins the look.
It says you’re either a rebel and don’t give a rat’s ass about your health — which stopped being cool when you were 16 — or are too weak-willed to kick something that can negatively affect your life and that of your family. What’s stylish about that?
Love the beard with the double-breast. That is bad-ass.
Thanks for the feedback Brian.
I see you are passionately against smoking, which is a good thing…until you become “that guy” running around telling smokers that they’re not “cool” or “too weak”. It’s not by ignorance but by conscious personal decision.
I’m not seeking approval, just keeping it real. I’m not a smoker. From time to time I’ll share a cigarette on break chatting with co-workers.
Wonderful!
Hi Dan,
How do you feel about black double-breasted suits? I currently own a dark navy suit and my usual clothing store is selling a black DB, so I was thinking about picking one up for work.
Absolutely love this article.
Thanks,
Jimi
Hey Jimi.
I have a black DB, in a heavily textured hopsack. It’s very formal…I wear it as a black tie alternative, or out at night. It’s a little too stark for the day and not appropriate for business.
As an aside, I think purchasing something just because your “usual clothing store is selling it” is not the best strategy for creating a personal wardrobe. Good to mix up your resources.
Thanks for reading,
Dan
The beard looks impeccable my man. I agree with your point that the beard allows you to dress more polished while not losing your masculinity. I also wear a much bigger beard than yours and I have a hard time trusting those that don’t have beards; that’s just me.
Haha. Thanks brother!
Wow, there are so many horrible things here. 1. The beard looks awful. Get some clippers, dude. 2. Cigarettes. Really? I mean, really? Who smokes any more? 3. You should be wearing a helmet on your bike. 4. Looks like you’re putting on some weight. 5. That hat. Totally awful. 6. Making each look a separate page: a very lame attempt to “get more page views.” Pretty sure you won’t publish this comment, but at least I know you’ll see it.
Haha. Wow. Can I live?? I mean really?
Loosen up Bobby. Life is too short for all that negativity…and at the end of the day, I’m doing me and you’re doing you.
Thanks for reading and sharing your opinions.
Fair enough. Peace.
Stuart Scott’s depth perception > Robert’s opinion
Robert, firstly, when you ask who smokes anymore, the correct answer would be “literally tens of millions of people in this country alone.” Secondly, I personally think Dan does a good job of managing to still look put together and refined even with that can of man that we know as a beard. Finally, if you are really complaining about him not wearing a helmet, I am forced to call troll. I think you are being a troll. Dan is right. Lighten up and cheer up.
Christ, I didn’t know a “man” could be so catty. Keep up the good work, Dan. Love the site.
Dude – chill out – seriously. And remember – style is subjective. If you don’t like what he does don’t come here.
Re page views – I think it is way better choice than throwing everything on one long ass page.
Great as always, you’ve inspired me to grow out my facial hair too. I’m looking forward to the new fall/winter posts
Give it a shot! Just gotta make it through the in-between phase.
Thanks, we have some really great features coming up!
nice stuff here dan. i dont believe ive ever seen patch pockets on a db before. on another note, was the lookbook from the previous site 86′d from the new site?
I like the contrast of patch pockets on a DB.
The lookbook was scrapped to make way for our Style Guide.
Cheers Cam.
Excellent!!
All great looks, but the first look is especially striking yet not overdone. Great job.
The beard is cool too. Though for your face and look I think a more closely cropped one would be better suited.
Thanks for reading Marcus!
Great looks, I love all of ‘em. There’s nothing like a navy suit.
Question for you: Have you heard of Moods of Norway? What do you think about their collection?
They’ve just opened a new store in New York, you should check it out if you haven’t already.
Thx.
Yes. Do you work for them? ;)
Nope, I just liker their clothes and was wondering if you
had heard of them.
(messed up and posted it half way lol)