Winter Suited & Booted

January 16th, 2013

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3. Country Tweed, NYC

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As I mentioned in a prior post, I recently made some fit adjustments to some of my bespoke patterns. This new fit, still slim but inching closer to “classic”, is not only more comfortable but can also be more flattering, in my opinion.

The jacket is a touch wider across the shoulders, roomier in the upper back, and, most noticeably, longer through the body. The pants are wider through the leg, pleated, and hemmed with a slight break.

This change is due partly to my style maturing, but also partly as a reaction to the current state of suits among style-conscious men. Especially young men. The way I see it, the ultra-slim-fit obsession is going too far – in many cases suits have become tight and have lost all the romanticism of their drape.

A slim suit flatters a man because it creates a lean shape, but a tight suit makes a man look larger and uncomfortable.

More on this later…

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Recently I’ve been a big fan of the “makeshift three-piece” using a mis-matched waistcoat.

It’s a great way to mix complimentary colors and textures – like this forest green donegal tweed and camel hopsack.

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Nothing finishes off a well-tailored winter look like a badass pair of oxblood dress boots. #Beast

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Thanks, as always, for reading.

Yours in style,

TSBmen

 

Photography by Alex Crawford

Check out more of his work at alexcrawfordphotography.com.

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  • Jordan

    Dan, the wider and longer cut looks MUCH better. Not saying your slimmer suits look bad, I’m just voicing my opinion, also, I agree that the skinny stuff has gone way overboard, it is almost disturbing..esp some of the latest GQs feature dress trousers that fit like my under armor gear. I have started purchasing classic fit or straight slim stuff rather than skinny fit clothes too..

    Do you think styles and trends will go back to wider pants and longer jackets?

  • http://www.thedapperdiamonddistrict.com Raymond

    Great post, I really enjoy the work you all do with the site! I have to admit Ive never been a fan of having a cuff in my trousers, because at 5’9″ I feel it makes me look shorter, but I love the way you pull it off. Is there a certain width you go for and does that change if you plan on wearing boots with them?

  • http://youtube.com/REALMUSIQFILMS Trung Tran

    The first suit is awesome, i like the plaid blazer, everything was well done. The only thing i would have done differently with the plaid is different pants just keep it one nice color. maroon, dark grey, black slacks or chinos. keep up the good work bro
    Peace and God Bless

  • http://youtube.com/REALMUSIQFILMS Trung Tran

    DAN GOOD JOB ON THE SITE, LOVING THE NEW HANDBAGS. YOU NEED TO POST MORE VIDEOS ON YOUTUBE BRO. PEACE AND GOD BLESS

  • R. A. Sasayama

    Cut and colors in the third outfit are a triumph. Keep that pendulum moving!

  • TimL

    Love look #3 and I agree with everything you said in #3. The new suites look tight and uncomortable. I like them loose and a bit longer.= but fitted well.

    btw… anyone tell you that you look like Ben Affleck?
    Seen the awards and I thought… what’s Dan doing up there?… lol.

    • TimL

      Also, I love the mix up with the odd vests. I wear these and alot of sweater viests with suites and sports coats at work and home. Great look for the winter. I look forwad to wearing them and have alot of variety. They dress up any look ..imo.

  • cejae

    The first suit is sick! I love a plaid suit; they are just hard to find.

  • Anonymous

    Finding the right suit is all about dressing for your body. Slim and in shape = cropped, fitted suit. Large/muscular/fat = more forgiving cuts. Pleats don’t look as good, period. Switching the cut of a suit because your copying fashion designers is tiresome.

  • A

    First look makes you look like a clown. 2 and 3 are probably the best looks I’ve seen on here in weeks.

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      Man, clowns must dress much different wherever you are from.

      Thanks for reading player.

      • TimL

        Homey the clown in da house… lol

  • Josh

    You and your crew do really great work. Keep doing what you’re doing!

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      Thanks Josh. The crew works very hard to support this site, glad you appreciate it. Some people think this sh-t is simple and easy.

  • Miguel

    Really love all outfits, the first one is hard to pull but the other two were perfect, the blue suit with those suede brown boot and that handsome green tweed just gave it the finishing touch.

    Thanks for sharing.

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      Thank you Miguel.

  • Justin in StL

    DT,

    Been a while since I spoke up…..just wanted to reaffirm my appreciation. Still look forward to my daily “check-in” on TSB men. As do all my compadres here in St. Louis that gawk at my navy blazer I introduced to them (along with the website) last year. You’re doing good things brother and I’ve enjoyed every step of the way. Cheers to the next step!

  • JC

    tried to purchase bag. ro site didnt have price or how to purchase. help! Thank you

  • Nick

    I just want to say at I am a fan of your blog & how far it has grown & developed. I really appreciate the frequent & consistent updates. I’m definitely the opposite of your physique & atmosphere but, I make sure I do what I can to carry myself well for a shorter heavy-set gentleman in Florida. Your blogs have encouraged me to look into creating a blog catered to gentleman with a similar stature as mine since I have yet to come across one that I can relate to.

    Back to your post:
    I’m diggin all three winter suits & I actually just invested in a blue bootlegger tweed suit very similar to #2 with the peak lapel. I doubt I’d invest in a flannel suit being I’m a Floridian & it just doesn’t get that quit brisk down south. Best believe when those awkward cold fronts come around, my tweed suit is in rotation. Lol

    As far as people going overboard with the slim everything suits, obviously that never crossed my path but, as a heavy-set dude, i still like to rock that tapered look with my MTM suits. I have to represent for the BIG BOYS & refuse to look sloppy.

    Keep it up Dan, I appreciate your sartorial opinion!

  • Changingman

    can wing tip boots be worn with jeans?

    • Jack

      Yes.

  • Craig

    The suits looks great. I love how your style is evolving.

  • Brian

    Great post, as always. One thing I obsess over is pant leg length/hems and have really liked what I’d been seeing on the blog for the past year or so. Namely, a tapered leg and hem that just kisses the top of the foot. I feel like this look works best with a tapered leg and not a terribly wide opening–like, I can’t swing that high a hem on my APC New Standards since the leg opening is wide. I sort of feel like the hem in the more “classic” look might be too high for the leg opening. Wondering if you’d be willing to expand on that, Dan. Thanks and keep up the great work.

  • Mrjbeee

    Stay dropping knowledge. Great post. #beast

  • Michael

    Yes, this is a post about suits but I liked your comment about shoes in Look # 2. I have an array of different types of shoes and I rotate often. I maintain my shoes but I’m not a stickler about it. A little scuff here or there doesn’t bother me; it adds charm to it in my opinion and shows that you’re living in your shoes. I realized that the straight-out-of-the-box condition of a pair of shoes won’t last if you at all plan to wear them so it’s better to enjoy your shoes, rotate often, and do a little maintenance when necessary.

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      Agreed sir.

  • Marlin

    Dan,

    I don’t ordinarily comment, but I had to give you props for the absolutely beast flannel glen plaid and green tweed suits of the first and third looks, respectively. Your subtle move towards more classic silhouettes is a great primer on how one can evolve his style without making ostentatious changes. And I have to ask; was the odd vest interest spurred in any way by Christoph Waltz’ superb gray flannel/odd vest ensembles in Django Unchained? Both you and Waltz have inspired me to try this look out for myself.

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      Well said Marlin, thanks for commenting.

      I can’t say I was channeling Waltz, although I saw the movie recently so perhaps subconsciously.

  • Jeremy Whitechick

    First thought when I saw look #1 was ‘channelling Nick Wooster…’. Strong look.

    Agree with many of the comments that the ‘mature’ new fit is working it girlfriend *snaps fingers*. Flattering, classic, off-trend and sensible. Definitely a step in the right direction.

    -Jeremy

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      Nick goes hard for sure.

      haha

  • Marcus Forlan

    Tho the first suit was too rad for me, I think you killed it with these looks overall. Very stylish, well fitted and just awesome! Well done.

    How about a rust colored donegal or tweed suit? My current fave color.

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      Rust? I like it.

      But I like coffee/tobacco better.

  • John

    That glen plaid suit is amazing.
    I love outerwear as well, but I agree, it gets boring if you wear the same coat over and over. (by the way, I have a knee-length double breasted overcoat. If I had it shortened around the hip, would it be acceptable to wear it casually?)

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      In theory, having your tailor trim it to mid-thigh will make it more versatile. Although if it’s already knee length, it won’t look that much different.

      This won’t be cheap either – I would probably just invest the money in a good casual coat, and have both.

  • Sergio

    There is something about look #1, I just can’t put my finger on it that just seems off. I’ve been going back and forth with it too but I simply can’t put my finger on it.

    Look #2 is by far my favorite one and definitely cements that I need to get a flannel suit, sooner than later. The color is absolutely beautiful and the fit and drape is amazing. Personally it is the best look of the three.

    Look #3 I like, and I really like the “mix-and-match” 3 piece as I’ve wondered if that was possible and how to work different colored vests in with a different colored suit. Dan, I know you mention that you are going for a more “classic” fit and although the changes are minimal some of noticeable as you have pointed out as well. I personally have never thought of all your previous suits as “too slim” or “slim” but at suits that fit your physique perfectly. Part of me would like to see this green tweed number without the pleat or without hands in pocket as I believe the two times they’ve been featured, this and TSB Daily, the hand in pocket threw off the draping.

    I do however love that it is a forest green tweed and not the typical tweed colors we’re accustomed too.

    • Mr E

      I think for me, the “off” thing about look number one is the knot of the tie.

      Because the collar is wide and the plaid is on the larger side, I think a full Windsor would have been more appropriate for the look.

      That, and the neck needs a little cleaning up.

      I’ve (crudely) Photoshopped what that could have looked like to illustrate both points here: http://i45.tinypic.com/22ht02.jpg

      • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

        hahaha!

        I gotta say, thanks for taking the time and effort to illustrate your point (literally)…but personally I hate fat windsor knots.

        I agree the beard lines could be cleaner (as usual), also think the collar needs a press, or higher quality collar stays.

        Cheers,
        Dan

      • Marcus Forlan

        Wow – you actually got Dan to shave. Peeps have been trying to clean him up for weeks wo much success!

        WRT Windsors – I think they look too much like a short fat man and I think that’s why a lot of people don’t like them.

        If I want a thicker knot, I just go around once more (or twice if I have a longer tie) before making the knot and that way I get a fuller knot but without the width.

  • Alan

    Dan – If I recall correctly, this is the second year running that your winter coats have remained mostly in the closet (yeah, I’ve been paying attention). These coats take up space, be it in your wardrobe or your storage facility – and they cost too…..honest question, is it worth it the hassle of having more than 2 winter coats?

    (I have a navy J Crew peacoat and a navy J+ Uniqlo wool down coat, in line with your essential piece guides funnily enough. I have a Hugo Boss overcoat sitting in a wardrobe at my folks, but I don’t know if I’ll ever wear it again tbh – but it only cost me £20 so no harm done)

    I’ve been playing with ‘odd’ waistcoats for a while – Lane Pryce was on to something – http://tinypic.com/r/ygimb/6 (shirts a bit out, it was a long day at the office – but you get the point). I actually think that unmatched pieces often look smarter then matched ones; I think because it looks more like you’re dressing for you and not ‘the man’.

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      Hey Alan.

      Yea, global warming is a b-tch.

      To be honest, I love outerwear. It’s the most influential piece of an outfit. For that reason, I have a fairly large collection of leathers, peacoats, overcoats, etc. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve been wearing heavy coats plenty this winter, just not on an everyday basis (and rarely over heavy suits).

      Ultimately it’s a personal decision – based on the weather in your location, how hot/cold your body temperature runs, etc. What’s not a good look, in my opinion, is wearing the same boring coat everyday to the point that people come to identify you with it. Switching it up is key, whether it’s with smart layering or other outerwear.

      Hope this was somewhat helpful,
      DT

      • Alan

        Hi Dan,

        I kind of agree with that, which is why I think it’s good to have two and alternate. To be honest though, I’ve never really identified anyone with their winter coat and I’d worry about NYC if I really thought people made those judgements en masse. I get the point that for 6-8 weeks a year, it’s important and you’re a fashionista 24-7 365. In terms of bang for buck though, I think it’s hard to justify.

        • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

          Different strokes for different folks my man. I can only give you my personal experience and opinions.

          For the record though, people make judgements en masse worldwide, it’s an unfortunate reality of humanity – and one of the reasons we do what we do, to help guys put their best foot forward.

          • Alan

            Days have passed, but I thought it was interesting that NY-LON-er fashion writer Hadley Freeman had this to say today:

            “When my fellow graduates of Fashion Writing School pen articles predicated on the idea that most people have more than one winter coat, I must admit that my gob is smacked. More than 20 pairs of shoes? Totally reasonable. More than one winter coat? Marie Antoinette-ish insanity!”

            http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/2013/jan/21/how-to-buy-great-winter-coat

        • Marcus Forlan

          Well if you are conscious about value for money you can start writing a style blog of your own. Even a basic one.

          Then pretty much every clothing item you buy will be tax-deductible as a business expense.

          Your clothing bill will drop anywhere from 35% to 45% depending on your tax bracket.

          • Alan

            I am considering a blog. That’s an interesting idea, two basic flaws for me in the UK:

            1) I already have a limited company. Tax saved would be 20% only.

            2) HMRC takes a pretty dim view of people claiming their suits against tax, and I’m not convinced saying I’m a fashion blogger will cut a ton of ice frankly. I have no wish to be audited.

  • Gary

    Killed it with the green tweed Dan. Game over.

  • George

    A forest green tweed suit… just went to the top of the list. Great post as always.

  • Herbert Morrison

    3-piece mash-up: how long have I been talking about this for? You give new meaning to the term “odd vest”. I’ve always worn mid to higher rise pantalones and they suit my body type beautifully–floating the waistline as you’ve touched on in the past works wonders. The tricky part is finding mid to higher rise jeans which many wouldn’t even consider but I prefer. Really digging all the content lately and looking forward to the future. Keep it gully.

  • Zach

    Incredible. I’ve been reading TSB for a long time now and i love all the posts. But every so often i see a look and just think wow, guy kills it.

    Also, i love to see those paul smith boots in both casual and more dressy posts. I just got a pair of boots shined the other day that ive had for years and they look brand new. Invest in quality.

  • Tim

    Glad to see the move in your suit cut. I have grown tired of seeing suits get slimmer and slimmer to the point of looking much to small and uncomfortable. I should be able to move in my suit and feel like it is part of me – not holding me back.

  • http://www.twitter.com/iPodschun Derric

    Been playing around with the makeshift three-piece idea in my head, so I want to thank you for showing it in a look.

    Also, hello to the other guy named Derric! Not the most common way to spell our name.

  • Derric

    I have been thinking changing my hair to a bit like Dan’s in this. Sorta enforce the part with length separation. Love it.

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      Thanks Derric. We’re doing TSB Daily piece on hair care soon…

      Cheers,
      Dan

      • Derric

        That is phenomenal news. And hello other Derric, the only other I was aware of writes choral music for Disney.

  • cam

    dan, im glad to see you moving toward a more classic silhouette albeit a bit ironic. keep up the great work.

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      Thanks Cam. May I ask, ironic how?

      • cam

        dan, i think, over the years, you have really campaigned for a very slim silhouette when it comes to suiting. many readers have commented in the past that you and some of your guests were on the fringe of too skinny. you have defended and maintained that, in your opinion, the slimmer fit looks better. ive always hoped, but never believed, that your view would shift. i was very shocked but glad that is has and i suppose i found it a bit ironic. maybe ironic isnt the right word. either way, i believe a classic silhouette serves you well. my apologies if my comments offended anyone. all the best

        • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

          I see where you’re coming from. I was just confused because I’ve never (purposely) promoted a “very slim” or “skinny” fit. But it’s all relative, I guess. If you’re reading from the Midwest, for example, our fits probably look tiny. But in NYC (or parts Europe) “very slim/skinny” doesn’t accurately describe the way we’ve ever worn our garments at TSB.

          Anyway, the fit changes I’m talking about in this post are fractions of inches (spread across multiple seams).

          Thanks for clarifying Cam.

  • Mike

    I’ve visited this site more than a few times and I must say, these are definitely the best fits I’ve seen you in. Everything is spot on and the fit, as you’ve mentioned, is the perfect blend of classical (but not dated), slim (not skinny), and flattering (nice drape). Nice.

    • Brad

      I couldn’t agree more!

  • Jerome

    Phenomenal, one of the strongest posts yet.

  • http://www.backdownsouth.com Back Down South

    Absolutely killing it lately! This post is wonderful.

  • Brady

    The last two suits look amazing. Been seeing those green donegal pieces a lot lately, nice to see the whole suit together. Did you have a waistcoat made as well?

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      Yup. A waistcoat just ads so much versatility. 3-piece everything!!

  • Mark

    All three looks are amazing, but that plaid suit is simply off-the-hook.

  • TO

    Dirty post. Immaculate styling, love the 3-piece idea (been thinking “what-ifs” about that lately actually lol).

    Fabrics are really, really great. What level of Bespoke at MAB affords one the option of Artison?

  • Johann

    The plaid suit is cool but I like the forest green Donegal tweed the best.

  • Ben Thorne

    I could not withhold comment on this article you put together. There is something very masculine and very classic about a man dressed in heavier fabric. You have inspired me to extend my collection as I am now living in London (UK) and my lighter suits are not holding up as I had planned.

    One question that also comes around in circles is tie width; do you find that heavier ties require more width to complement the wider lapels and manlier stance created by wearing heavier suits?

    I love how the browns play off one another in the final look on p.3.

    Keep up the excellent blog .

    best regards,

    Ben