The most style-forward suit right now is slim, softly constructed and double breasted.
Most guys shy away from double breasted suits and don’t think they can pull them off, but it’s not as tricky as you may think – and the rewards can be outstanding.
Firstly, it’s important to understand that not all DB’s are created equal. A common misconception is that they are all stiff, boxy and padded like the iconic “power dressing” versions from the ’80s.
Here, three contemporary DB suits with three different button stances, along with tips to help pull them off in style.
1. The 6×2 Soft-Constructed Light Flannel
This jacket, handmade in Italy, is a great representation of what I call “the future of suiting”. I’ve heard some chic Italian men call it the “one pound suit”, which I think is a great name for it.
It’s light, unlined, with a soft natural shoulder and very thin full-canvas. Notice how the shoulder slopes down smoothly and gradually from the collar to the elbow – rather than the square, padded and roped shoulders your father used to wear.
Bonus Tip: Double breasted jackets naturally add a little width/heft and are therefore best suited for the tall and/or thin. Although this doesn’t mean bigger guys can’t make them look great.
Bonus Tip II: The button stance notation is expressed: number of buttons on the front of the jacket, X (or “by”), number of functional buttons that fasten to close the jacket.
Bonus Tip III: When wearing a DB jacket (unless it’s VERY slim and well tailored), try to keep it buttoned as much as possible to retain a better silhouette. For the record, a single breasted jacket also looks more flattering when buttoned. The exception is when sitting down – it’s always a good idea to unfasten.
Bonus Tip IV: As with a single breasted jacket, keep the bottom button unfastened for a more comfortable and natural drape.
- Grey lightweight flannel suit by d’Avenza
- Blue stripe shirt by Ralph Lauren Polo
- Knit tie by Ralph Lauren Black Label
- Brown woven leather gloves by Hilts & Willard
- Leather/suede double monkstrap shoes by Scarpe di Bianco
- Watch by Montblanc Timewalker Automatic (42mm)