Two Breasts Are Better Than One: DB Suiting

April 21st, 2011

The most style-forward suit right now is slim, softly constructed and double breasted.

Most guys shy away from double breasted suits and don’t think they can pull them off, but it’s not as tricky as you may think – and the rewards can be outstanding.

Firstly, it’s important to understand that not all DB’s are created equal. A common misconception is that they are all stiff, boxy and padded like the iconic “power dressing” versions from the ’80s.

Here, three contemporary DB suits with three different button stances, along with tips to help pull them off in style.


1. The 6×2 Soft-Constructed Light Flannel

This jacket, handmade in Italy, is a great representation of what I call “the future of suiting”. I’ve heard some chic Italian men call it the “one pound suit”, which I think is a great name for it.

It’s light, unlined, with a soft natural shoulder and very thin full-canvas. Notice how the shoulder slopes down smoothly and gradually from the collar to the elbow – rather than the square, padded and roped shoulders your father used to wear.

Bonus Tip: Double breasted jackets naturally add a little width/heft and are therefore best suited for the tall and/or thin. Although this doesn’t mean bigger guys can’t make them look great.

Bonus Tip II: The button stance notation is expressed: number of buttons on the front of the jacket, X (or “by”),  number of functional buttons that fasten to close the jacket.

Bonus Tip III: When wearing a DB jacket (unless it’s VERY slim and well tailored), try to keep it buttoned as much as possible to retain a better silhouette. For the record, a single breasted jacket also looks more flattering when buttoned. The exception is when sitting down – it’s always a good idea to unfasten.

Bonus Tip IV: As with a single breasted jacket, keep the bottom button unfastened for a more comfortable and natural drape.


  • Grey lightweight flannel suit by d’Avenza
  • Blue stripe shirt by Ralph Lauren Polo
  • Knit tie by Ralph Lauren Black Label
  • Brown woven leather gloves by Hilts and Willard
  • Leather/suede double monkstrap shoes by Scarpe di Bianco
  • Watch by Montblanc Timewalker Automatic
  • Will

    I love the Neapolitan shoulders, always been fond of flannel too.

  • Fran

    May I ask three questions?

    Who is your Italian tailor or is it a secret?
    Which fabric did you use for the italian made suit?
    Which fabric did you use for the striped suit?

    Thank you for the article and your answer.

  • emil

    Can a short guy wear a DB SUIT?

  • Christian

    I think I’ve seen those monk straps in my dreams..


  • Anthony

    The cord suit is amazingggggg


    The DB corduroy suit Rocks! Great combination of fabric, color, and fit. The color scheme of the hardware in contrast to the suit is spot on! And the lapels are just right! This is by far one of the best DB suits I’ve seen. It’s really inspiring. Any chance you coming out with a line of your own in the future? Thanks for sharing.

  • paul fredrick

    I love db suits use to wear them when i was younger. It is hard to find a slim db thats not from china off ebay lol

  • The Arrogant Male

    Very nice post. Great point about dbl-breast requiring ‘earning’ at offices; I agree 100% and can’t wait until I get to that point. The 3-piece is similar in that regard. Loving the 2nd post, the ‘power-pinstripe’ 6×1. Beautiful suit.

  • Les Frères JO’

    The double breasted corduroy suit is very cool ! nice man

    If you like french men street looks :

  • Arsen

    The DB look tends to be a bit formal, even for everyday business… but … I’m seeing how the look can be toned down by selective fabric choices and a more casual cut. You are an unofficial public servant my friend.

    Arsene R.

  • Brian

    That double breasted navy corduroy jacket is just fantastic. I would buy that in a heartbeat.

    • SB

      Good feedback :)




    i used to hate double breasted suits, they reminded me of the suits my great grandmother used to make me wear on easter sunday as a kid or the uptight business men that i would see on tv. but with the new unstructured slim fitted blazers i’m definitely a fan.

    and look 3! oh my damn! that is possibly the sickest suit i have seen. i can’t think of anything that would make that suit look better,perhaps if it were in my closet it would :)
    my only thought is that i would have went with better shoes. different shoes is a better phrase. i’m a huge brogue wingtip fan and love the ones you used but they can’t keep up with that suit. definitely far from a fail but i think out of the 60+ you could have found something better. still thoroughly impressed.

    • SB

      Thx brother!

      Maybe someday soon it could be in your closet :)


  • John Sartoria

    DB are way to go!
    I need that Navy Corduroy in my life PRONTO!

    • SB

      Coming soon! (Maybe)


  • Akshay

    I’ve noticed that you wear a lot of Bass shoes. Just out of curiousity – what do you like about Bass vs other shoe brands? Maybe you can do a post about them?


    • SB

      Classic design, decent construction, unbeatable price.

      Thanks for reading,

  • Oscar Navarro

    The shoes are super classic!!! I love the suit as well.

    • SB

      Thx Oscar!

  • sarteaga0408

    Yes! I don’t know why you wouldn’t include that in the MAB collection. Question what is the price range for your upcoming collection?

    • SB

      Good question. As of right now, it looks like suiting will be somewhere between $695-895, depending on the fabric. This, however, may change slightly.


  • Swashbuckler

    I cannot believe we have never seen the last one before! It is out of this world! One of my favorites of yours as well.

    I think you absolutely should put a piece like it in your upcoming collection.

    You’re unstoppable.

    • SB


  • Jon

    I hope this isn’t too off topic, but did you get your Bass shoes in a store in NY or order them online? If so, what store?

    • SB

      Store in NY. Zacky’s I think, or maybe David Z.


  • Stephen

    Great Post! I have always loved the look of double breasted jackets, and am so glad that they are becoming a big thing nowadays. Thanks for all the great tips and info, I always look forward to more!

  • Bosun

    Really like double breasted suits, they just seem to ooze power and refined taste. The brogues in look three, are a definite hit

    Always eagerly anticipating subsequent posts!

    p.s: could you please tell me what kind of knot you use for the knitted tie in look 1?


    • SB

      Agreed, and thanks.

      It’s a 4-in-hand.


  • Kristopher

    Awesome, the 3rd look is pretty cool, i like how you showed how a db suit can be dressed down a bit w/o a tie and w some chunky suede wingtips . good look. also i just wanted to give you some praise for the frequency that youre able to put out new posts. most blogs out there that put out original material (not just a series of reblogs and stock photos) take a lot more time to put new stuff out. so cudo and congrats on the continued success!

    • SB

      Thanks Kris.

      I’m lucking to have a tremendous, hard-working team. You can thank them.


  • Zach

    Fantastic! I love the look of double breasted suits, and have argued with my dad a lot about them!

    A question for you SB: I’m a shorter guy, is there any way i can rock a DB suit? or should i stay away from them altogether?


    • SB

      How short are we talking?

      Under 5’7, I would prob stick to a 1-button single breasted.


  • Ariel…

    I’ve been telling people that DB suits will explode this year and maybe with more posts like this, more men would start listening and getting themselves one!. Your “Pea Suit” is as innovative as it gets and is something I definitely think you should consider adding onto your MAB collection. Full support here Bro…

    • SB

      Thank You Ariel.

      It’s great to have a forum to ask potential “customers” what they would be interested (or not interested) in purchasing. The future of shopping, in a way.


  • Anonymous

    One of my favorite posts! You have impeccable taste! LOVE IT!!! thanks for posting

  • Paul

    The first and last one appeal to me… they look great – updated and spot on. But, you wear them well as usual. Take care.

    • SB

      Thanks Paul.

  • adam

    I was going to disagree with the post when I read the beginning, but I absolutely love the last one.

    • SB

      Thx Adam