Not Your Grandma’s Quilt

December 5th, 2013

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I’m all for mixing visual textures - the beefier the better come Fall/Winter. I’ve also always had a thing for quilting – maybe it’s the Canadian in me gravitating toward warmer garments. In fact, quilting was one of the focuses of my final menswear collection at the Fashion Institute of NYC.

Quilting has been showing up in all kinds of places lately, from tailored garments to knitwear. It’s a great way to ad some warmth, texture, and depth to your F/W look.

Here are three examples from my wardrobe.

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1. Quilted Waistcoat

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Photography shot with the Canon EOS 70D digital SLR camera, with Dual Pixel AF technology and built-in Wi-Fi

Here’s a unique way to add a little weight and warmth to your odd vest 3-piece. I love extending the no-coat-needed period with seasonal cloths and textures in the Fall.

This is the quilted waistcoat I did for my design school collection. Handmaking it was a b-tch, but now I really appreciate it. It’s one of my favorite layering pieces.

There’s a fluffy layer of padding sewn between the grey flannel (Zegna) suiting fabric and the interior silk lining. I used gunmetal buttons, patch pockets, and a striped cotton shirting at the backside.  The back cinch is also cut from the self flannel cloth, to mimic the line at the back collar.

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All flannel everything!

Flannel suit, flannel shirt, flannel tie, flannel waistcoat.

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A great look to be suited & booted.

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  • Clear frame sunglasses by Vintage
  • Blue flannel suit by Michael Andrews Bespoke (Cloth by Ariston A 759/11)
  • Grey flannel quilted waistcoat by Dan Trepanier
  • Grey flannel check shirt by Michael Andrews Bespoke
  • Grey herringbone tweed tie by Woolrich
  • Watch by Montblanc Timewalker Automatic
  • Black alligator watch band by Montblanc
  • Black pebbled leather kilted chukka boots by J. FitzPatrick
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  • http://undefined Dick Lickerson

    #1 Well done, Cheers!.. except my neighborhood child-molestor had those shoes :( #2 Coat looks like the winter jacket from Woolworth that poor kids wore in 1989. #3 The trousers are SBWIF (again when can I buy them?) but the sweater (?) looks like an asian carp with its scales sloughing off.

  • Jason S

    I love all three looks but the quilted waistcoat in look one is awesome. I love a warm vest but most aren’t suited for layering under a sport coat. Great job!

  • Cody J

    Hey Dan, can I have your address? Cause I really want to steal your quilted vest. Coolest “cool” weather item ever.

  • Tod

    wow very fashion

    such sunglasses

    so unique

    much poosing

    wow very movie star

  • Luis Alcaraz

    Hi,

    I love your blog or web page wherever you wanna call it! Each post it is amazing and enjoy it readding it and taking tip, even when some stuff are quite too modern for me.

    You are a lucky guy, you have class, style, brain and good looks!

    Keep the good work and I feel that we aree in the pressence of the next Tom Ford.

    Best wishes and regards for the upcoming year!

  • Bobbybooth

    Those custom shoes are great. Had a look and overwhelmed with the choices. To be honest i would probably just copy yours,

  • http://mensstylepro.com Sabir Peele

    Hey Dan,

    I am big fan of the quilted crew neck by Band of Outsiders. Since you often wear crew necks with collared shirts, do you have tips for guys looking to pull off the look (comfort, collared shirt choice, etc)?

    Keep up the great work brotha man,

    Sabir

  • Colin

    Quilted B&W mini-houndstooth crewneck over contrast club collar + pin and that subtle grey tweed herringbone number.

    That’s Bosh, Dan. Chris Bosh.

  • http://whitneynicjames.com Whitney

    The crewneck sweater is my fave. Love the subtle details!

    ~Whitney
    http://www.whitneynicjames.com

  • Marcin from Poland

    Greetings from cold and chilly Warsaw,
    quilted is smth I need now, and I must admit that not only the waistcoat in the first look is exceptional but the whole set in general.

    best wishes
    Marcin

  • Nay

    The entire quilted jacket, waistcoat and gillets caught on in the UK around one or two years ago.

    I have to say you pulled of the look very well!

  • Z

    The second look is awesome.

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      Thanks Z!

  • Shawn

    Hey Dan, just wondering how your J. FitzPatrick boots were holding up to regular wear? I’ve been interested in the very same model except in brown, and could use your input! Thanks!

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      They’re incredible. Probably mu favorite, and most often worn, pair in my collection. The soles are rubber so they’re in it for the long haul, and they’re comfortable for walking. Go for it, you won’t be disappointed.

      Cheers,
      DT

  • http://keyboardandcompass.com/ Jeff

    What’s with us Canadian’s and our love of quilting? I’m from the far West, so I don’t even have the cold weather to blame!

    Look 1 was my favourite, but the other two were on point as well. I’d throw all the money in the world at that vest, if it existed in olive!

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      If only I had a method for reproduction… One day…

  • Sergio Arteaga

    Love all the looks and really can’t pick a favorite one. Love the dressing up of the cords for sure though!

    Question and a strange one at that. Is that the freeway underpass on Century Blvd?

  • AK

    Dan the man! A+. Head of the class. Nah you’ve taken over the class, prof. Loving these looks, especially the quilted sweater at the end there. Well done!

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      Thanks AK!

  • Keaton

    Very cool and unexpected layering! The RL blazer and Band of Outsiders piece are truly amazing. I’m really happy to see more posts by members of the TSB team again, you guys, and posts like these, are why we’re all here!

  • John B

    The third look has an unexpected streetwear feel. That’s not a bad thing by the way.

    Being a student, I don’t want to look out of place, but I most of the times I want to be a bit dressed up. In my opinion a quilted blazer solves that problem!

    Are there any non-bespoke quilted waistcoats around?

  • Olerud_4_Life

    Tough jacket in the second look.

  • Tom

    Hi Dan,

    Not that I have the cred to wear a vest without a jacket but what’s your views on a vest with a different color (usually silk) on the back. Can you only wear those vests with jackets?

    • http://tsbmen.com Dan Trepanier

      It has to be done in a very tasteful way…which most of the time it is not. I would recommend matching the color of the back lining to the fabric, or pulling out a subtle (preferably neutral) color in the fabric. Avoid contrast for contrast’s sake.

  • http://nonchalancegentlemen.blogspot.com Zulhilmi Rahman

    God, that sweater is so beautifully made!

  • http://wideeyestightwallets.com Adam

    I’ve been loving the quilted jackets I’ve been seeing this season. And damn, that quilted waistocoat is on point. Since yours was handmade by yourself, have you seen anything similar for sale anywhere? I have a quilted layering vest from J.Crew but it just isn’t as boss.

    Also, I live in Chicago and am looking for some solid outerwear for this year. How will a nice quilted jacket (something like the Club Monaco number Wes wore a week or two ago) hold up warmth-wise against a wool topcoat? I’m all about layering, but I want something that’s gonna be *warm* when it’s all said and done.

    Great post, all around.

    • Adam E

      It’s possible to do winters without a parka, last year I decided to try and minimize how much I wore my winter coat (despite the cold Ontario winter). I survived with a Mac Jacket (non insulated, just a thin fabric lining), a thin fleece vest and a down vest. I would layer the thin fleece vest under my blazer, and the Mac over top, or the puffer vest over my blazer under the Mac. I would bust out the long Johns for cold mornings waiting for the bus, but otherwise… The winter coat (ski jacket) only made appearances on days with 4″+ of snow, or for outdoor activity.

      That quilted waistcoat is awesome, there should be more of those out there for us northerners…

      Also, that Sweater/jacket in look 3, is unexpectedly awesome, I want to hate the idea of it (what do you call it, a swacket?), but it looks awesome.

      • http://wideeyestightwallets.com Adam

        Agreed! I want that ‘swacket’ so bad! Ha. But yeah, I’ve used creative layering to go a few Chicago winters without any real outerwear, but I finally broke down this week and ordered a Gloverall duffle. It’s amazing what you can manage with a wool blazer and a quilted vest, though….next on my list is waterproof boots. Tried to hit up the Skokie L.L. Bean for some Bean boots but they were all sold out :-/ hmm…

  • http://undefined undefined

    All 3 looks are bad ass. Especially 1 & 3.
    #BAWSE #ALLFLANNELEVERYTHING

  • Calvin

    Dan the first picture of look 3 is bad ass! All in all great post!

  • http://anorexicescapades.com BougieHippie

    You look 10 years younger in look 3! I’m a fan of quilting also. Great dapper styling.

    http://anorexicescapades.com/

  • cam

    some nasty steelo on that band of outsiders piece!