Three-Piece Spring Suits feat. Ryan Devens

March 24th, 2014

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2. Chambray Suit

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“This is about as lightweight as it gets.

Once I realized that Southwick could work with pretty much any fabric, I called our production manager and asked him if we had any dead-stock chambray laying around.  A few hours later, he showed me something like 20 yards of beautiful washed selvedge chambray that had been abandoned in the factory for a few months.  I clipped off 5 yards and shipped it to the factory the next day.”

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“After working at J. Crew during the Billy Reid collaboration (one of his rewards for winning the CFDA award that year), I became fixated on the chambray two-piece suit he designed for that collection. I re-created it and added a vest – I thought it would be a dressier take on a casual fabric that isn’t often used for making a suit.”

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  • Custom Japanese Chambray 3-Piece Suit by Southwick for Taylor Stitch
  • Custom Horizontal-Stripe shirt by M. Gambert for Taylor Stitch
  • Floral Necktie by Taylor Stitch
  • Pocket-Square by Otis James
  • Watch by Timex 1800 for J.Crew
  • Tortoise Sunglasses by Warby Parker
  • Tassel Loafers by Billy Reid
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  • Jimmy_Johansen

    Thank you, Ryan Devens! This is the first time (if not first, certainly one of the very few times) that I’ve seen someone go sockless and/or with no break and it looked authentic. Oftentimes, the guys I see with short hemmed trousers looked like their trying to be fashionable or trendy. This looks like your style and that’s the most important part. Showing off YOUR style not just a style.

    Well done! And for those who wear shorter trouser hems and have been crushing it, I mean no offense, I must have missed you.

  • Jon Hester

    It should be outlawed to possess this much swag. This is my new favorite post. (No offense, DJ. I hope we’re still cool.)

  • http://unseenflirtspoetry.wordpress.com Unseen Flirtations

    It’s weird how fabrics so comfortable can be so risky

  • Al Bizzy

    San Francisco Represent! Killed it, bro.

  • http://www.lucidlingo.com.au/ Gazman

    I know it’s fashionable these days but short jackets just look out of whack to me. Was watching a piano recital on Saturday and the young pianist wore a jacket as short as the chambrey one and every time he stood up for his bow I couldn’t help but notice how out of proportion his suit looked.

  • TO

    His suits look fantastic! Loved all three, but especially the seersucker and chambray.

  • khordkutta

    Niiice post, that chambray is killin it

  • Chris

    Solid post. The “nuances behind a seersucker suit” were mentioned in the first post but no one elaborated. I’ve always seen seersucker as a staple of southern style but I’ve always been nervous about taking the plunge to invest in one.

    Macro-shots of the fabric help me visualize the outfit, but the fullbody shots lose that detail that makes the suit. What nuances are going to educate me on such iconic suiting?

  • Jakob

    That chambray suit is just beauuutiful.

  • mligon

    Can we all agree the break on the pants on looks 2 & 3 are near perfect and look 1 too short?

  • Miguel

    All three suits were really nice, the Chambray and of course the Linen were my two favorites.
    I think the waistcoat would be too much for summer but again it’s a choice thing.

    • http://www.TSBmen.com/ Dan Trepanier

      Yea, come the dead of summer I would probably drop the waistcoat… but it’s perfect for Spring.

  • Owen

    Impeccable tailoring. Bravo!

  • Jaws

    All 3 of these outfits could be #menswear parody outfits about excess

    • http://www.TSBmen.com/ Dan Trepanier

      But I think only you and your #menswear buddies would get the parody. To everybody else it’s “Ryan, you look like a handsome gentleman today”.

  • John B

    Great looks, especially look #2. The suit looks amazing and the shirt is quite unique. Horizontal stripes AND button-down cutaway collar? Not something you see every day!
    The tie bar and the vest serve the same purpose, but I don’t think it looks bad.

    • http://www.TSBmen.com/ Dan Trepanier

      I’m on the vest OR tie bar train myself, but to each his own.

      • John B

        Well, I don’t wear a tie bar with a vest either, but I won’t say he doesn’t look good because of it. On a related topic topic, what’s your take on the vest and belt combo?

  • Arthur Ejiofor

    Thought that was Dan at first.

  • WideEyesTWBlog

    Well done…I’m digging all the suits, and could definitely see myself wearing all of them (especially the chambray jacket), but what really impressed me were the shirts in the first two posts. I’ve been hunting for a chambray club-collar in a just-right shade, and have been getting to the point where I think I need to go custom to find it. I’m also really liking the rise of the horizontal shirt – not even sure if that is a ‘rise’ or a trend or anything, or if I’m just noticing it much more now, but I like the sublte ‘outside-the-box’ness it adds without being…well…trendy.

    • WideEyesTWBlog

      Oh, great neckwear as well!

  • Adam

    Love the Chambray suit! I’ve never been a seersucker guy (probably comes from being Canadian), but the chambray looks like it could be the ultimate summer suit.
    I disagree with the idea that a waistcoat doesn’t belong with a summer weight suit. At the peak of the summer, I probably wouldn’t wear one, but around the seasonal transitions, the waistcoat gives you the option to skip an overcoat… I also make it habit to get a waistcoat with most suits that i have made, because they give you mix and match options, and in more casual looks can be worn without the jacket…
    I don’t see the waistcoat precluding a tie bar… Yes, it does hold the tie in place, but the other 50% of a tie bar’s roll is as jewellery. By the “silly decoration” argument, why would a man wear a watch if they have a smart phone? I wear a tie bar with my suits (2 or 3 piece) and I wear a watch, despite having my smartphone as well, not because I need to but because I want to…

    Not sure about the long neck/bowtie comment. I’ve seen guys with long necks without the bowtie accentuating it, it may be the combination of the long neck, beard and bow tie that creates that visual elongation since the bow-tie effectively gives a visual lower limit and the beard the visual upper limit, rather than a more natural fade effect.

    • WideEyesTWBlog

      Great response re: the watch/iPhone…personally I join the flocks thinking that a vest and tie bar is overkill, but I never thought about it that way. To me, it’s just balance…with a vest AND a tie bar you just have so much going on at your sternum (jacket lapels, vest ‘lapels’, tie, tie bar, shirt). Almost in the same way that I’m not the biggest fan of the air tie (I feel like it leaves a lot of open space on your shirt that needs….something….

      Lastly, it’s also kind of a

      Really, it’s not a ‘rule’ thing for me, or even something I ‘judge’ other people wearing, but it’s just what works for me and makes me feel confident. Anyway, just wanted to chime in that I like the alternative perspective.

  • Jim

    Is it just me or when a guy with a longer neck wear a bow tie, the bow tie accentuates that a little?

  • Malcolm

    Great post. Really gets me thinking about building a wardrobe around suits instead of the typical jeans, button-ups and sneakers! Any thoughts as to whether suits will come back as a daily uniform for guys? Also, the chambray is stunning. I’d love to see that suit in ten years after the fabric is worn in.

    • http://www.TSBmen.com/ Dan Trepanier

      Hmm.. For many guys it still is their uniform. It all comes down to context and occupation.

      We are certainly seeing more guys wear them voluntarily, though.

  • Joe Taranto

    Nice post. Love the cut of the suits and the lack of a break on the pants. I’m a bit confused, however… With lightweight fabrics like seersucker, chambray, and linen – it would dictate that you’re wearing them in warmer weather, hence a 3-piece suit would be too warm. This is rather contradicting. Also, I don’t get the tie bar and vest look… The vest holds the tie in place, hence making the tie bar obsolete and just a silly decoration, no?

    • MS

      Agreed on both counts. Like “casual tuxedos” and “going sockless” in the winter, the S/S 3-piece is for those wanting dandy affectations only. Or, worse, those lucky bastards who don’t sweat like a fire hydrant.

      • John B

        The vest can make the suit an option for spring as well. Also, you could also wear the vest with the pants. I agree about going sockless during the winter though!

    • http://www.twitter.com/iPodschun Derric

      Don’t know how the weather gets in TN where Ryan is from but in San Francisco I imagine that his lightweight three-piece suits can be worn comfortably for every season but winter. I’m in southern California and could probably wear them year-round considering we get plenty of 70+ degree days during “winter.”