A Comprehensive Guide to Buying Bespoke Clothing

June 1st, 2012

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3rd Suit: Seasonal Separates

For your third suit, think about something seasonal with a little texture or subtle pattern that is versatile and can be easily broken up and worn as a blazer or a seperate pant.

My favorites are khaki cotton for the spring/summer and tweed for the fall/winter. The one pictured here is a great weekend blazer, combined with the perfect pair of khakis.

Flatter Your body type

Tall & Skinny

- Avoid pinstripes but don’t be afraid of a subtle check or glenplaid fabric. Patterns will add girth, as will lighter colors.

- If a double breasted jacket isn’t too style-forward for you, it will effectively widen your frame.

- Don’t go too slim, a little room will add some weight and balance out your proportions.

- Go with a medium to full break and cuffs on the trousers to break up your linear shape.

- A slightly wider notch lapel with a lower gorge line is your best bet.

- Don’t be afraid of a little padding in the shoulders to add some presence (this does not mean a wider shoulder).

- Keep the pockets straight, not slanted, and use a ticket pocket to fill some empty space.

- A longer jacket is slimming, a shorter jacket is lengthening…shoot for the middle ground, just past the cup of the seat.

- Use horizontal accents like a belt, folded pocket square and tie bar to add some east-west visual cues.

- A slightly higher button stance can offset your length (but you don’t need a three button jacket…nobody does).

- Go three piece, a vest can add some heft.

- Straight shirt collars will suit your frame and fill vertical space.

Tall & Heavy

- A longer jacket will visually elongate the body.

- Darker colors are sliming, as are pinstripes.

- A deep button stance will create a stronger “V” shape, accentuating the chest and masking the belly.

- Yes you can wear a slim fit…this does not mean “tight” or “restrictive”.

- Sit the pants across the belly, not under it, and use braces/suspenders to “float” your waistline.

- Go with a wider peak lapel to draw the eye upward and proportionally cover your broad shoulders.

- Leave some room in the trousers so you’re not accentuating the girth of your upper body, but you don’t need a big sloppy break at the bottom.

- Slanted pockets, in theory, draw the eye downward and are slimming on the physique.

- Use a ticket pocket to fill some space in the midsection.

- Go with double vents. The jacket can be cut a little slimmer in the hips since side vents pulling open are much less obvious than a center one splitting.

- Odds are, you’re tough on your clothing. Opt for a heavier, more durable cloth but lose the lining to avoid overheating. A second pair of trousers may also be a good idea.

- Spread collar shirts should be matched with larger tie knots (like a windsor or double windsor), and both are ideal for a large neck.

Short & Skinny

- Crop that jacket a little, it will lengthen the leg line and add some height (just make sure your seat is mostly covered).

- Go with slim (not skinny) peak lapels, in proportion with your shoulders.

- A one button jacket keeps the suit in proper proportions and allows you to have deeper stance, creating the illusion of height.

- Keep the legs slim and tapered with very minimal break.

- The jacket sleeves should be cut short enough that you show at least 1/2″ of  shirt cuff – this will make your arms look longer.

- A shoulder pad can give you some presence, and a little rope on the shoulder to.

- as can a check, glenplaid or textured fabric.

- Keep your shirt collars narrow and your ties slim and on the short side (if  they’re always coming out too long, have them shortened at the backside by your tailor).

Short & Heavy

- Dark colors are sliming.

- Pinstripes are your best friend.

- A deep button stance will visually lengthen your physique.

- Go with peak lapels to draw the eye upward and keep them in proportion with your broad shoulders.

- Choose side adjusters over belt loops to keep things streamlined. You can also use the same braces trick described above in the “Tall & Heavy” tips.

- Hem the trousers with a very light break, but leave a little room through the leg – too slim can make you look top-heavy.

- Go with a heavy fabric for durability, but an unlined jacket for breathability. A second pair of trousers may be a good idea as well.

- Try shorter spread collars (and larger tie knots) to correspond with your shorter, wider neck.

Muscular/Athletic

- The bigger your muscles, the more strain you will put on the suit. Use a durable cloth and ask the tailor if they can reinforce the seams where you typically have problems.

- Use the smallest possible shoulder pad, or none at all, and minimal rope. You don’t need to accent your already muscular shoulders.

- Avoid anything too short or cropped – it will look boxy. A longer jacket with a lower button stance will stretch out your bulky physique.

- Keep the lapels wide enough to balance out your broad frame.

- Slanted pockets will lean out the physique a little, as will a beltless look with side adjusters on the trousers.

- Darker solid colors are slimming and will look less bulky than lighter ones. Pinstripes are a good idea, but not checks or plaids.

- You’ll likely need the “top level” with the most fittings. Overly muscular body types with volume and dimension are the most challenging for tailors and pattern-makers.

  • Khaki cotton suit by Michael Andrews Bespoke (Cloth by Ariston AR 022/10)
  • Navy/Brown mini plaid shirt by Michael Andrews Bespoke
  • Navy knit tie by Polo Ralph Lauren
  • White cotton pocket square
  • Brown alligator belt by Ralph Lauren Purple Label
  • Silver belt buckle by Ralph Lauren Purple Label
  • Watch by Montblanc Timewalker
  • Brown alligator watch band by Montblanc
  • Brown leather briefcase by Frank Clegg x Dan Trepanier
  • Brown leather spectator wingtips by Scarpe di Bianco
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  • Christine Bravo

    Great tips. We all know that there are a lot of bespoke shops readily available. Making the best bespoke suit is not easy. It requires time, energy and knowledge to be able to make one.

  • Jimmy Wilson

    Its quite useful guide, it helpful for the people like me who has not enough idea to purchase a well tailored suit. It is my first visit to your site through this blog and i am officially your blog visitor now! Thanks again buddy
    James Bond Suits

  • http://www.henryherbert.com Charlie

    Superb article and very measured, excuse the pun. If you are ever passing through London, please do come and say hello! http://www.henryherbert.com/

  • brokss

    Adding up to what numeorous readers have already mentioned in their comments, I too consider this post to be the best on the given subject that I have ever read. Thanks the author.

  • http://twitter.com/style_mvp StyleMVP

    This post is absolutely brilliant! Thanks for sharing. Well constructed piece with excellent examples.

    We are now a loyal follower.

    Twitter.com/Style_mvp

  • Steve

    THIS is by far the best and most comprehensive guide I have yet to see. I now feel comfortable walking into a few tailors and shopping around, thank you for this thorough advice.

  • Cody

    If you don’t mind me asking, which out of the three Micheal Andrews lines did you tux come from? It looks flawless!!!

  • Anonymous

    Really great article. thanks

  • James Marce

    I see that you go unlined here… does this affect the long term durability of the suit? i have gone to made to measure for everything and have recently bought a 7.5 oz unlined one for the summer. i love the way it drapes and fits over the shoulder, and i was considering going that way for the rest of them. however, i am unsure as to wether or not they will break down easier, as i wear my suits all day everyday (every day to work and a lot of weekends) What has been your experience with that?

  • Rob D

    Great website and great advice here.

  • kayvaan

    For someone like myself with more non-standard proportions (extra long monkey arms, short-waist, long legs, large overarm to chest) even a halfway decent custom garment looks so much better than most ready to wear.

  • alexander

    Being in the custom suit biz, a point worth adding to your myriad good (rather; great) points is as follows: the prevailing myth, propagated by way too many suit makers out there is that once a pattern has been finished for an initial suit that the ‘bespoke expert’ will now be able to bang out suits 2, 3, 4, etc. and deliver them because they, “have your pattern perfected and there’s no need for anymore time-consuming fittings.” No no no no no.
    Clients should understand that the tailor normally will do the least amount of work necessary to make sure the fit is superb- and basic to that is giving you the least amount of knowledge about fit as possible, which is EXACTLY why this posting works abundantly well. All suits will likely NOT fit the same; most fabrics will drape differently which ought to be a huge consideration. Custom craftsmanship is such that there must be allowances for what might even be minute variations in the cutting, prep for the canvas and the stitching of the garment. Legendary NYC tailor Rocco Ciccarelli told me something 10 years ago which was brilliant in its poignancy: “Alex, if I ask you to sign your name 10 times there will be detectable variations in each signature, be they minute or large and one must not expect that a tailor will duplicate a clients garment precisely each time. There must be an allowance or consideration for this fact as well as the inherent differences in the drape of different fabrics.”
    Anywho, clients ought to be forewarned as to this fact and when you ask to try on all 2, 3 or 4 suits at your final fitting and the tailor says, “oh, no need; they’re all the same fit,” don’t believe the hype! Tell him (or her) that you’re in no rush and will be trying them all on. Knowledge is power and you (the client) must understand these things so that whether you are buying a suit for $5K or 5% of that in some far-off country, you KNOW WHAT TO LOOK FOR AND DEMAND THOSE THINGS FROM YOUR CLOTHIER.
    Thanks again for the piece and keep on educating them masses, good Sir!
    -Alex http://www.alexandernash.com

  • Derek

    Great post! I just have a question here: I myself is a new grad and is looking for a suit for work. Since I am kind of a skinny guy (173 cm but weight only 117 lbs), buying a off-the-rack suit seems impossible to me. I am pretty sure custom suit is what I will go with and right now I am just exploring options. A friend of mine told me a website indochino.com. I checked it out, the suit is relatively cheap (it makes sense to me as they were made in china, which saved up labour cost) but I need to measure myself at home. I want to hear what you think about those online custom suits. Thanks a lot.

    -Derek

    • Rob D

      Derek, have you been to Europe or UK. Lots of slim fit suits available and alos Super Slim as well.

      • Derek

        Rob, haven’t been to europe so far, and I checked some european labels like paul smith, dunhill, zegna, etc. Even their smallest one is big on chest.

  • TTG

    Thanks for taking out the time to give such a detailed post. Great stuff!
    -Philip
    http://thetreasuregentleman.wordpress.com/

  • Young yak

    Thanks for this great post, a real comprehensive style guide!

  • Wow

    Best menswear article I’ve ever seen. You are a fantastic writer! That Ivy league education shines through :)

  • gian

    Now this is what I call comprehensive!

    Very well made indeed, I like it a lot!!

    Cheers

    Gian
    Consultant Style Advisor
    http://gntstyle.wordpress.com/

  • Kris

    Great post…keeping this for future reference. Thanks!

  • BA

    Thanks for the great post. What’s your advice on how slim the trousers should be?

  • TO

    This post is simply brilliant Dan! Your bags compliment the looks really well here too. When are they coming out?? I want to put in an advance order, if possible:)

    When you recommend an 8-10oz. worsted wool as a year-round suiting fabric, what is typical, or what you recommend for a typical “10 month” suit?

  • Sofie

    This is just amazing. I can not say otherwise. Supper funky outfits. Struck me as really fancy. I’m waiting on fine summer days and bright costumes.

    http://www.cheapestnatostraps.com/

  • MrJBeee

    Excellent post. True gentleman and a scholar!

  • Mark

    While not wanting to waste space, I feel compelled to honor the effort underlying this and other recent posts. I’m with CAS: “Serious kudos. Good job, sir.”

  • Dave

    Great article SB!
    I love the fit of the poplin blue shirt by Michael Andrews Bespoke – suit 2 (perfect fit!).
    As a European I am a supporter of the slimmest cut possible ‘Cut To The Bone’. A good suit is your second skin and should look it.
    It must be a challenge to be a Muscular/Athletic man, hehehe :)
    What is your take on Suitsupply? Their suits look decently canvassed, super 120′s and with working cuff buttons, also with a decent price?

    • Vali

      I have switched over the past year or so from hugo boss suits to suitsupply and I am very happy.I have 2 suits from their sienna line and 5 from their washington line. The construction and fabric are much better than boss black. Most of their lines are cut rather slim. I don’t know anything yet about their mtm stuff. I think that you get a great vallue for your buck, but don’t be fooled by that article that rates suitsupply as on par with 3000usd suits, they are not.

      • Sosa

        Maybe not their Sienna lines but their Jort lines are.. I own one and they are on par.. An Armani jacket typically has about 300 hand stitches in it.. (Collezioni and gorgio line) I had my tailor take a look inside when I purchased the jacket just for the simple fact that I was interested.. the Jort had 293.. def comparable.. as in fabric.. beautiful fabric from Luigi Borto.. light weight and luxurious to the touch.. the fit is awesome.. natural shoulders that actual handwork evident.. high armholes..beatiful drape.. I own a couple of Zegna’s and one Collezioni gray suit.. and I would say it’s on par. I dont have a sienna suit so I can’t speak to that. I have a couple of Napoli’s that fit awesomely as well. But I will attest to the fact that My jort jacket seems to be on par with Collezioni and Zegna jackets

        • Vali

          Nice to hear, I’ve been meaning to try the Jort…

  • Sam

    Do you happen to have any tips for girls who want bespoke suits? (Not a pantsuit, but a fine gentleman’s garment).

  • Anonymous

    Thank you for this excellent post. I feel like I’ve been given a side door entrance into a very exclusive club.

  • Santiago

    Gracias Dan, una vez más.
    Hace mucho tiempo que leo tu blog y me ha servido muchísimo. Pero esta vez te pasaste. El informe está muy completo e interesante. Felicitaciones!

    Podría escribirte perfectamente en inglés, pero prefiero que leas mi idioma de origen. Espero no te moleste.

    Mil gracias,
    Santiago.

    • http://www.thestyleblogger.com SB

      Gracias Santiago!

  • Desmond K

    Well done sir. I applaud you for your attention to detait with this post. Very informative for the novice and even for the experienced as well. This will be “favorited” and kept as a reference for my clients.

    http://chinosandcheesecake.blogspot.com/

  • Hector

    Why is everybody so weary of a black suit?

    • Sergio

      Black is usually reserved for formal events and other misfortunes such as funerals and weddings…

      • Dave

        Black is usually worn by servants and waiters during the day – so goes one saying.
        Another is that America’s oldest suit maker Brooks Brothers did not make a ready to wear black suit between 1865 to 1998 (Abraham Lincoln was shot and killed wearing one)

  • Gray

    Howdy, I live in Thailand and so have no choice but to get a suit made in Bangkok, which is known for having ripoffs, but i know their are some good quality places. This should help me find one. thank you.

    • Estelle

      jeg elsker den jakke !

  • UrsTruli

    Game changing post,… for both Dan and I. Incredible.

  • Adyna

    I`m out of town with work, coffee time with the team but I told them:silent pls, I read something important.haha. Very informative. I love it! Some of the things, I must admit, I didn`t know..this is great reading it not only if you decide on going bespoke..but for your own knowledge as well. “Great Colombia paper work“ :D

  • Mehmet

    Incredible article. This is the kind of thing which keeps me coming back to Styleblogger. When it comes to the production side of clothing, there is no such thing as too much detail or information. With all but the small independent brands hiding their fabric and labour sourcing, it’s difficult to tell if you are investing in a quality product, which was designed with function as well as form in mind.

    I would love to see more articles like this in the future, which delve into the nitty gritty of fabrics, construction, and finishes — not just for suiting, but for shoes, leathers, casual wear, etc. How do you determine fabric and construction quality? What are telltale signs of good/poor production? It’s rare to find people who are both knowledgeable and willing to share in these fields. I hope to see more like this in the future!

    • CAS

      100% Agreed.

      NOW THIS IS A FUCKING POST!!!

      Haven’t commented on here in a while but this deserves some serious kudos. Good Job Sir. I see all those years at MAB and FIT are certainly not going to waste.

      You should do a post of this nature on shoes next since soo many men skimp on footwear and it would behoove them to be knowledgeable on the anatomy of a quality piece of footwear.

      My only gripe is your recommendation on knot size for bigger guys. I see so many athletes and sportscasters on TV with giant windsor knots and it looks atrocious! I agree with GQ on the merits of a four-in-hand:

      http://www.gq.com/style/style-manual/201205/ties-neckwear-tie-bars#slide=5

      • http://www.thestyleblogger.com SB

        Thanks brother.

        For the record, by no means would I ever use ESPN as a reference for clothing or fit advice. I’m not sure how some of those guys even tie the enormous boulder knots in question.

        The four-in-hand is the only knot I wear, but it can look small and out of proportion (especially using a thinner silk tie) on a guy with a neck larger than 17.5″.

        Best,
        Dan

        • Joe

          For what it’s worth, I’m right at a 17.5 and like to use a half-windsor for silk ties and four-in-hand for thicker wool ties.

  • Tim

    I am looking for my first tailor suit and this is really useful!!! Thanks!!!

  • cam

    holy hell dan what a post! how long have you been working on this one?? don’t you think a slimmer and much more formal watch should be worn with a tux (if one at all)?

  • Sergio

    As a customer of Michael Andrews Bespoke and someone who fits the heavy side of the spectrum and not necessarily short nor tall, I can say that they definitely do everything that Dan has said and more. The process can be long but I can definitely tell all of you that it is completely worth it. I’ll be hopefully picking up my 1st Bespoke suit (in gray) in the next week and a half. They definitely go out of their way to help you look your very best.

  • Iain

    Excellent post! I’ve been managing a tailor shop for a couple of years now, and I can’t say I disagree with any of the suggestions posted. Much of this information is what my salesmen explain everyday! In addition, any reference to personal preference is clearly highlighted, which only further illustrates your knowledge and expertise. Well done!

  • Bryan

    Thoughts on Proper Suit?

    • Grant

      Bryan – First, I say well done to Dan. Its been a long time since I’ve seen someone go into this much detail. Having worked in the luxury/tailoring space and being a consultant myself its great to see this information provided readily.

      I have personal experience with Proper Suit. I had a navy wool/mohair piece made. SB, notch lapel, two button, 2 vent, flat front trousers with side tabs, cuffs Overall it’s held up very well and I’m pleased with the fabric, construction, and most of the fit. this is an MTM shop making their product overseas but cutting out the middle man so all you’re paying for is fabric and production.

      The name/mill of the fabric maker escapes me but it has held up well. A bit darker than midnight blue with a solid weave but a bit if visual texture. the mohair mix gives it a sharp look and holds the creases well.

      The shoulder line is natural with AMF stitching. Fully canvassed with a narrow lapel (a bit more narrow than I usually take, but this is MTM) with a jaquard lining. Dan is right in his warnings about linings as mine has begun pilling a bit.

      The trousers are cut well with side tabs and a “fish back” waist meaning a notch is cut out in the back for easy alterations. Trouser hems also come with heel protectors. I had to shorten the trousers a bit but this was nothing major.

      My biggest problem is the sleeves. They are too slim for my taste. The two guys who run the shop will try to get you in the slimmest thing possible which I disagree with. they are young and laid back and into he slim look. I like my clothes fitted but not tight and the sleeves are dangerously close to too tight. I’m also a former athlete so I have a bit more muscle than the average customer.

      The sleeve length is also on the short side. I have not taken the time to get them lengthened but will do so. I originally order surgeon’s cuffs but the jacket came without them. this is actually a good thing since they can be altered. I’ve ordered suits since this one with functional buttonholes and the sleeve length was off and can’t be adjusted.

      Overall the suit fits very well save the sleeves in the arm area. I get compliments every time I wear it and it has held up well. This is a classic case of having to tweak some small things in the next suit to make it the best fit possible.

      If you’re interested in trying them out let me know and I’ll put you in touch directly.

  • Dan

    Great post!

    Do you have an opinion on suitsupply.com suits? What category do they fall into? I’m in Australia so it’s a big risk buying one online without trying it on.

    I fit a 38R off the rack so I can get it tailored here afterwards.

    • Steven

      Hey Dan.. Ive bought a couple of their suits online and am very pleased with the results..It is half canvassed suit from the Napoli line with soft shoulders a slight roped shoulder with a beautiful roll on the Lapel. They have different lines and the Napoli fits me well. This is due to the fact that I have broad shoulders and a more than average drop (8 inch drop). It fit me pretty well off the rack where all I had to do was lengthen the sleeve a little bit. They do come with surgeons cuff’s which limits how far you can shorten or lengthen the sleeves. If you have smaller shoulders then the other lines like the sienna will be a good look. The Washington line is more of that British look with the strong shoulders and the ticket pocket. So, if thats more your thing then go for it. Overall Its a good line for its price point. I have a couple of ck collections suits (that are half canvassed)and some brooks brothers 1818 and suit supply fits me best within the half Canvassed range. I also have some higher quality suits like Zegna’s and Canali’s and I will say fabric wise its not as good but not too far down. Ive seen suits not made as well (very few hand stitches in the canvass) and they sell for three times more. I have two suit supplies from the napoli lines (charcoal gray and navy) and they get a lot of play in my closet. Great work horse suits. And the fit and drape is really nice (slim without being skinny). My two cents anyways

      • Dan

        That’s great info – cheers!

        I was looking at the Washington in Navy or Grey for exactly what you describe, a workhorse suit.

  • Joe

    Very informative and helpful. The point about getting to a stable weight is important. I’ve lost about 70 lbs in the past year, gradually by making certain lifestyle changes. I’ve got another 50 before I’m happy with my weight. A lot of my clothes that I really liked and looked good in, in spite of my size, are now way too big on me, but I don’t want to invest too much since I’m still in transition. Now, on the other hand I have invested in some bespoke footwear (boots by a maker in Texas), and there’s really no comparison to anything off the rack. And the process seems to be just as involved.

    • cuponoodles

      One should be careful, though, Chris. Often, weight loss leads to less inches everywhere, including in your feet. Don’t be surprised if you drop a shoe size or two after those last 50 come off…

      • Joe

        That’s a very good point and very true for most. However I gained all the weight after high school ( I was an athlete in high school) and my shoe size has stayed constant (though these are not an off the shelf size, they’re made for my foot, which very well may change a bit while staying the same “shoe size”). Now these are boots, so I am a bit concerned about the circumference on the top. But I don’t regret them for a second, they were my gift to me for finishing grad school. If ever they don’t fit, I’ll put them on a shelf. The craftsmanship that went into them are worth displaying.