We love having style challenges in the TSB office. A little competition is healthy and keeps us bringing our “A” game.

We teamed up with the good people at Johnston & Murphy to bring you a series called “Spring is in the Air”, where each of our team members chooses their favorite pair from the current J&M collection and styles them in an outfit that best represents the best of their Spring Style.

Towni has a knack for staying comfortable in style.

He went with the “Ellington Plain Toe” in water-resistant suede – the perfect bucks to sharpen-up a casual weekend look.

Ever since we wrote about avoiding square-toed and overly-pointy shoes (because they look unnatural and are the most obvious signs of cheaply-made, mass-produced footwear) we’ve received many questions about what shape(s) to look for.

Everyone’s feet are shaped differently, but none are square or pointy. The most flattering and comfortable last (the mechanical form used to mold the shape of the shoe) follows the natural lines of the foot.

As with almost any other shape/silhouette in menswear, the most refined is usually the one that properly contours the natural shape of the body, accentuating its “assets” and masking its “liabilities” (more on this in future posts).

That said, with the help of our friend Bill White, founder of Scarpe di Bianco, we put together this guide of shapes you should be wearing, as opposed to shapes you should not be wearing.

Next time you think this is a small detail that goes unnoticed, bring a lady friend shopping and ask her which shape she prefers :)

Thanks for reading.

Yours in style,

TSBmen

Whether you’re flying for business or a swanky Spring vacation, air travel can be a pain. But if you prepare properly, it doesn’t have to be.

Here’s some tips to take the stress out of your trip through the airport:

1. Avoid checking luggage. A carry-on will speed up the process and avoid any stress related to lost or damaged baggage, not to mention save you a little $ in checking fees. If the trip is less than a week, you should be able to pack (and wear) versatile enough pieces to get by on one medium-sized duffle bag.

2. Have your boarding pass ready. The longest wait in the airport is usually to print your boarding pass. If you’re not checking bags, you can skip this completely. Print it out beforehand, or use the fancy barcode scan on your smartphone.

3. Before you leave the house, get metal-detector-ready. This means storing your belt, watch, phone, keys, wallet, etc. at the top of your carry-on. No sense putting something on that you will inevitably have to take off. Keep only your boarding pass, passport, and one credit card in your pocket, and feel free to accessorize once you’ve reached the gate.

4. Wear slip-on loafers! And please, wear socks…for the sake of your feet, and your fellow travelers.

5. If you’re bringing a suit, wear it on the plane. Not only will you look stylish in-flight, but the jacket’s interior pockets are designed for passports and passess, and, most importantly, it’s better for the life of the suit than squashing it into your carry-on.

6. Wear a polo shirt, for comfort. This one has a deep placket and button-down collar, perfect for under a suit. Have a lightweight sweater close-by too, for those unpredictable cabin temperatures. Make it a cardigan, not a pull-over – it’s much easier and more graceful to add or remove.

7. Your carry-on goes under the seat in front of you, to leave room for your neatly-folded jacket in the overhead compartment.

8. Once you arrive to your destination, settle-in asap and hang/store your wardrobe properly. Don’t forget, most hotels have an iron and board in the room. If not, you can always get the shower steam going.

Have a great trip! Next up: a series on what to bring and how to pack it.

Have any other air travel tips? Share them in the comments!

Thanks for reading,

TSBmen

If you have a problem with “billowy” shirt fabric at the lower back, there is a very simple solution. Add back darts to your shirts.

If your tailor only takes-in the side seams, he has to make the front and back slimmer by equal measures. Problem is, most guys have a flat or convex (curved-out) front stomach but a concave (curved-in/hollow) lower back.

Therefore, even with a shirt that has been taken-in at the sides, there can be annoying extra fabric billowing at the lower back.

See here:

Back darts are two simple straight seams, sewn from the inside, that turn this extra fabric inside-out.

This allows the shirt to follow the natural curve of your back, creating a much more flattering silhouette.

See here:

I have darts on 95% of my shirts, and I sew them myself. It’s very easy to learn.

It’s a five minute alteration that can make a huge difference.

Yours in style,

Dan & the TSB crew

What good is a beautiful tuxedo without equally elegant outerwear?

Last night, heading to the Valentine’s Day Massacre Party at Michael Andrews.

Dan: midnight navy/black double-breasted peak lapel cashmere overcoat, by MAB

Towni: midnight navy double-breasted 3/4 length midnight navy officer’s coat, by Rag & Bone

Wes: black single-breasted wool notch lapel chesterfield, vintage

-TSBmen

Reader:

Hey Guys,

How do you keep your shirts properly tucked-in all day? Every time I raise my hand or reach up for something at the office, I have to hit the bathroom to unzip and re-tuck my whole shirt.

Surely you have a better solution for this everyday problem?

Thanks,

David

TSB:

Hey David, great question.

Believe me, we understand your frustration.

Good news is, we have a simple solution.

All of my bespoke trousers are made with a rubber grip-tape sewn to the interior of the waistband. In combination with a well tailored shirt and snug pant waist, the rubber strip provides friction and tension to keep the shirt from slipping out of the trousers.

For non-custom pants, I often have my tailor sew-in these rubber strips. Some tailors carry them, otherwise you might have to pick up a small spool from your local fabric/trim shop.

The image below shows one of the three strips that MAB uses in their bespoke trousers by default.

As with many things in life, sometimes the best solutions are the simplest ones.

Yours in style,

TSBmen

Photography by Alex Crawford. 

Check out more of his work at alexcrawfordphotography.com.

One of TSB’s biggest fans and supporters, since the early days, is an old friend from my high school bball days.

Tim O’Hearn, or TO as he goes by in the comments section, is a fellow hooper-turned-style-enthusiast who studies the game, has a keen eye for detail, and is passionate about helping guys dress better.

In response to our before & after post with Gabe, TO shared with us the transformation that he, and TSB, have had on his father Mike.

Check it out below, written by TO himself.

Weekend – Before

It has been a process to convince my father to come around to dressing better.

Being a criminal lawyer and workaholic, when probed, he almost seemed permanently convinced that his craft was much more important than the way he looked. Upon examination of his fellow law workers in the region, he was right.

However, he has recently changed tune and upgraded his look quite a bit, in part due to a horde of reminders from a certain one of his offspring.

Weekend – After

It has taken several birthdays and Christmases to help get the idea across, but my dad is starting to truly understand the value of quality basics and, more importantly, fit.

Office – Before

No, he didn’t get taller, but he slimmed down his look considerably (from a three-button 42L to a two-button 40R). Now my dad looks at suiting in a whole different light.

The next project is convincing him to invest in some shoes well-made enough to be passed down, to a certain offspring.

Office – After

And finally, a word from the man himself:

“After thirty years of practicing law, a lot of things become routine. My dress was probably the oldest of all my routines. Tim had to work a long time to convince me to try something new. When I look in the mirror now, I love what I see. It’s amazing how something as simple as a new wardrobe can make you feel more confident and re-energized!”

—————————————————–

Special thanks to Tim and Mike for this awesome submission. These kind of emails remind us of our impact and motivate our team to push TSBmen to the next level.

If anyone reading from the Windsor/Detroit area is interested in a similar “upgrade” Tim is a friendly and down-to-earth budding stylist who can be contacted at timohearn@gmail.com.

Yours in style,

TSBmen

With blizzard #NEMO currently attacking the east coast, we’ve been talking a lot about snow shoes.

Here’s our favorites. Think of them as long-term investments in your comfort and the lifespan of your other footwear.

1.  Towni – Hunter Wellingtons  $135

2.  Wes – Allen Edmonds ‘Long Branch’ Wingtips  $350

3.  Alex – Shearling Lined Bean Boots  $180

4.  Dan – UGG ‘Capulin’ Boot  $240

Yours in style,

TSBmen

Tie bars are officially becoming played out (it’s safe to say that whenever something starts showing up regularly on ESPN broadcasters).

Try holding your neckwear in place with a cool tie pin instead, like this vintage revolver.

Bang!

Thanks for reading,

TSBmen

The details can set a man apart, and the tie dimple is one of those small things that can go a long way.

Here’s the trick to getting get it right, with a four-in-hand knot (which is the only knot we recommend because it’s the most visually appealing, in our shared opinions).

1-5: Tie a four-in-hand knot, making sure the tie is not twisted in any way. The key is to tie it a hair on the short side so you can pull it tight into position (no sloppy loose knots!).

6. When you’re ready to pull the knot tight, grab both edges of the tie just below the knot.

7. Use one finger to push-in the middle of the tie directly below the knot, creating a “ditch”, while keeping the edges untwisted and in place.

8. Holding the “ditch” in position with one hand, pull on the front and back ends simultaneously. The harder you pull, the more pronounced of a dimple you will create (and the smaller the knot gets).

9. Button the shirt collar and fasten the knot up onto the collar.

10. Adjust it until it’s just right, and you’re ready to go.

Thanks for reading.

Yours in style,

TSBmen

One of the most frustrating things about the fashion industry, in my opinion, is the timing of retail product releases. I understand why the business is structured this way, but it makes no sense from a consumer perspective.

Right now, for example, it’s a freezing cold January day in NYC (21 degrees Fahrenheit, -6 Celsius) and it’s nearly impossible to find gloves, scarves or winter hats in stores. Sure, there’s a few leftovers in the clearance bin, but the main displays are stocked with colorful bathing suits, polo shirts and other spring items.

Do people really shop this far in advance? I can’t even think about buying a polo shirt when my hands are half frostbitten.

Anyway, there is a good side to this. Sale sections, in store and online, are filled with winter gear that you can wear right now – if you can find your size. As an example, each member of our team selected their favorite warm winter coat currently on major markdown.

Check out our picks below and stay warm!

Dan’s pick: Ben Sherman Plectrum Parka $705 $405

Alex’s pick:  A.P.C. ‘Canadienne’ Jacket $780 $312

Townsend’s pick: Woolrich ‘Blizzard’ Quilted Jacket $450 $302

Westley’s pick:  Gant Rugger ‘Doubler’ Wool Coat $495 $248

Yours in style,

TSBmen

Reader:

Hey TSB Men,

Quick question: What’s your go-to scarf knot when it’s REALLY cold out? I’m trying to stay as warm as possible.

Please keep up the awesome work!

TSB:

Excellent question. A scarf is only as warm as the knot you tie.

Here myself, Towni and Wes show you our favorite knots for staying warm during those “f-ck it’s cold!” days.

Hope this helps player.

Dan

This hand-knit “Soopascarf” by Yokoo is an absolute beast.

I call this knot the once-around ascot:

1-4. Once around the neck, keeping it high and tight on the chin.
5. If you get the proportions right after the once-around, one end should dangle slightly longer than the other.
6. Pass the slightly longer end over, behind, up and around the slightly shorter end (like the first part of tying your shoes).
7. Pull tight.
8. Adjust the top end so that it sits flat over the bottom end (similar to tying an ascot).
9. Fasten both hanging ends inside your jacket.
10. Pop lapels to seal in body heat.

Towni

Just an average-sized wool scarf in a versatile shade of olive.

The knot is the classic noose loop:

1-2. Fold scarf in half.
3-4. Wrap folded scarf around the back of neck.
5-6. Pass both ends together through the folded loop.
7-8. Pull tight.
9-10. Adjust scarf so it sits high on the neck/face.

Wes

This fringed houndstooth scarf has been in my family for as long as I can remember.

I call this knot the donut tuck:

1-6. Wrap scarf around neck twice.
7-10. Tuck the loose ends up, over and behind both wrap-arounds. Simple, symmetric, secure.

Thanks, as always, for reading,

The TSB Team

Photography by Alex Crawford.

Check out more of his work at alexcrawfordphotography.com.

Reader:

Hey TSB Team,

Love the site. Check it everyday and all that jazz. One thing I can’t find is info our your different hair styles. You all seem to have great “dos”, and I’m struggling to find one that I like.

Hope you can advise on what to tell the barber, how to style it, what products to use, etc.

Thanks again and keep it up!

TSB Team:

Well, hair advice is difficult. It’s such a personal thing that’s it’s nearly impossible to advise on a large scale. In general, though, I think tight on the sides and longer on top is a flattering look on most guys (because it lengthens and slims the face). But again, that’s a pretty severe generalization (and not fair to those who already have long, narrow faces).

Rather than giving “advice” on hair styling (we are not hair care professionals), we can simply discuss our personal experiences and strategies to achieve our desired look.

So here is a break down of each of our hair situations.

1. Dan

1. Who cuts your hair?

Caesar at Raul’s Barber Shop on Avenue B & Houston. It’s a kind-of-grimy Puerto Rican spot that specializes in sharp fades for cheap prices.

2. How much does it cost?

$15. $20 if he trims and lines-up the beard. I usually tip him $5.

3. What do you tell them to do?

He’s been doing it for years, so he already knows. Very low taper (#o.5 guard, or sometimes bald) at the very bottom, faded to a #2 guard on the sides, blended with scissors toward the top. He also reverse-fades the top of my beard so there are no harsh lines.

It’s clean cut on top and a little ‘hood toward the bottom – just the way I like it.

4. How often do you get it cut?

I try to go every two weeks, but usually it’s more like every three.

5. Do you touch it up between barber shop visits? If so, what do you do?

I clean up around the ears and edge/trim the beard as needed, using this handy device.

6. How often do you wash it? With what?

I rinse my hair daily in the shower, but only use shampoo and conditioner about once a week, sometimes less.

Stripping products like shampoo remove the essential natural oils in hair, which is why I hate the way my hair looks the day after shampooing – all poofy and corny looking.

The natural oils keep my hair sleek, and if some product is left over from my last application it’s much more agreeable.

7. What styling products do you use?

I typically use American Crew Grooming Cream.

8. Describe the styling process. 

Soak the hair. Gently dry with towel. DRY HANDS COMPLETELY. Grab a finger full of grooming cream and work it into hands. Rub all over in hair.

Part hair with comb over the eye – swoop it more straight back than to the side. Use fingers to tousle so it’s not too perfect (no visible comb lines).

9. Any other tips?

If you’re seeing a new barber, bring a picture of what you want. Nothing you say to him will be more descriptive than a photo.

Wes

1. Who cuts your hair?

NJ from Geno’s Barberia on Greenwich Ave between Charles St & Perry St. It’s the definition of a traditional barber shop.

2. How much does it cost?

I don’t get a shave or anything special, just a regular haircut for $35. I always tip NJ $5 because he’s meticulous with my hair and doesn’t let me leave unless I’m %100 satisfied with the cut.

3. What do you tell them to do?

I ask NJ for a side part, with tightly tapered sides. Usually the taper starts with a #1.5 or #2 clipper guard. He takes it from there.

4. How often do you get it cut?

I usually go every three weeks, unless there’s a special occasion or event I’m attending

5. Do you touch it up between barber shop visits? If so, what do you do?

No, it took me forever to find a great barber like NJ so you won’t catch me f-cking up my own hair.

6. How often do you wash it? With what?

I shampoo and condition my hair every three days. Days in between I just run water through it to clear out any product. Similar to Dan, I hate the way my hair looks immediately after shampooing. There are always some hairs that don’t want to cooperate and the part isn’t as prominent because of it.

7. What styling products do you use?

The two products that have worked well for me are American Crew “Fiber” and Redken for Men “Texture Putty Outplay“. With either product I use a little more than is recommended because my hair is so thick.

I also use American Crew “Grooming Spray“. Now you might think, hairspray for men?! As I mentioned, I have thick hair that is difficult to manage, so after I comb-in the side part I hit it with a touch of hair spray so it won’t fall down in my face within 20 minutes.

8. Describe your styling process. 

I start with a plastic spray bottle full of water, similar to the one at the barber shop, to dampen my hair. I create the part with a fine tooth comb, making sure the small annoying hairs are on the correct side of the part – I don’t want to risk looking like Alfalfa.

At this point I apply product and use a combination of my hands, a brush and a blow dryer to hold everything in place. Finish with a touch of hair spray and I’m good to go.

9. Any other tips?

User-review sites like Yelp and Citysearch are great for finding well-recommended barbers in your area.

Alex

1. Who cuts your hair?

Well here’s the thing, I used to have long flowing locks with beautiful waves and curls… then I let my girlfriend cut my hair. Unless your girlfriend is a barber, don’t let your girlfriend be your barber. Now, in her defense, she was basically just doing whatever I told her to do, but the thing with that is, I’m not a barber either. Unless you are a barber, don’t let yourself be your barber. It turns out there’s actually a pretty good reason why a lot of men pay upwards of $40 for a decent haircut, because your hair is really easy to f-ck up.

So I went with the buzz and, to be honest, I’m so glad I did. I forgot how freeing a buzz cut is. I no longer have to shower every morning. I no longer spend ten minutes putting sticky pomade in my hair and styling it just so. And, best of all, I no longer have to worry about how my hair will look when I take my beanie off. People think the buzz cut is for the summer, but this sh-t is so convenient in the winter.

2. How much does it cost?

You know how much this cut cost? Yeah, I know you do. It’s FREE NITENY NINE. I’m saving $40-50 every three weeks – that’s like $700/year.

3. What do you tell them to do?

Well, now that I cut my own hair I usually say something like “Alex, just cut your hair, stop popping z’s in the bathroom mirror. You’re a beautiful man-boy and you’ll reach puberty some day just like the big kids.”

4. How often do you get it cut?

I buzz it every fortnight or so.

5. Do you touch it up between barber shop visits? If so, what do you do?

Touch up, hair cut, same thing.

6. How often do you wash it? With what?

I shampoo and condition roughly once a week.

7. What styling products do you use?

N/A

8. Describe your styling process. 

N/A

9. Any other tips?

Yeah, get a buzz. I didn’t even have to answer the last two questions in this questionnaire. You know why? Because having a buzz cut simplifies your life.

Townsend

1. Who cuts your hair?

Depends. When I’m in NYC, anyone available at The Blind Barber. When I’m in CT, I see Dawn at Montana for Men. She helped me big time in a pinch last summer (after a particularly butchered cheap cut), and she’s now my go-to if I’m around.

2. How much does it cost?

40 bucks, both places. Standard men’s specialty barber price. I usually tip $6-10, depending on the amount of work I need done. Oh, it comes with a beer/whiskey too.

3. What do you tell them to do?

Well right now I’m letting my hair get a bit longer, so it’s all about keeping it even. I have the back trimmed to avoid the mullet and thin everything out, since my hair is pretty thick.

4. How often do you get it cut?

With this style, roughly every 7-8 weeks.

5. Do you touch it up between barber shop visits? If so, what do you do?

I occasionally trim the back, and take my trimmer to those scraggly hairs that extend down the back of the neck.

6. How often do you wash it? With what?

I rinse it with hot water every time I take a shower (which is usually every day). I shampoo roughly once a week with Baxter of California and instead of conditioner, I apply Moroccan Oil once my hair is almost completely dry.  The moroccan oil is awesome!  It keeps my hair well conditioned and super soft (cheap shampoos/conditioners tend to really dry my hair out).

7. What styling products do you use?

For the look above, nothing.

I use Blind Barber’s 90 Proof Pomade if I’m trying to achieve a more “clean cut” look and sweep my hair back (see below).

8. Describe your styling process. 

Usually I just go with the cleaned-up “bed head” look (above). I literally roll out of bed, brush my teeth, get dressed and go to work – no real styling involved.

For the more “clean cut” look (below), I work a quarter-sized amount of pomade into my hands and finger/comb it through my slightly-dampened hair.  I use a comb to establish a clean part line, but otherwise shape it more with my hands.

9. Any other tips?

My hair is straight and long-ish, so it can be styled various ways. I’ve found a couple different styles that work for me (as shown here), and it’s surprising how much it can change the overall feel of a particular look.

Hopefully this was helpful.

Thanks for reading,

The TSB Team

Photography by Alex Crawford.

Check out more of his work at alexcrawfordphotography.com.

Stashing your daily carry in properly-suited pockets can:

1. Avoid bulkiness and keep a lean silhouette

2. Keep you organized

3. Maintain the integrity of your jacket and lengthen its lifespan

The goal of personal style, in my opinion, is to create an image that accurately represents who you are and what you are about, but also provides a hint about who you aspire to be.

With that said, my personal style is shaped by my life experiences, the people or things that have influenced me along the way, and my continually evolving aspirations.

In a recent article for the Huffington Post, I broke-down my top 10 style influences  I hope this helps explain the nature of my personal aesthetic, as well as help our readers develop their own style.

1. My mom

My mother and her 13 siblings were raised in a small two bedroom house. When she moved out on her own in search of a better life, she taught herself how to sew out of necessity and made her own business wardrobe from thrifted fabrics. Watching her be creative on a budget taught me the building blocks of developing personal style, from scratch.

2. Farm Life

Menswear is all about functionality and durability, something I’m reminded of whenever I visit home. Many of today’s menswear “classics” began as workwear garments (jeans, boots, flannel shirts, etc) which are more natural and attractive with some authentic beat-up character.

3. Sports

The most important thing about personal style is confidence. It’s the most convincing element of a good outfit. Team sports, specifically basketball, taught me how to stand out in a crowd while fitting into the context of a team. This can be compared to dressing for business, where guys often balance expressing themselves with fitting into the office culture.

4. New York City

There is no place like NYC. Every neighborhood has it’s own style. From the casual-rich Upper West Side to the trendy and gritty Lower East Side, it’s a place where you can express yourself and be exactly who you want to be.

5. Columbia & the Ivy League

The Ivy League has it’s own point of view on style, mainly traditional Americana with a collegiate nonchalance. Combine that with New York City and you have a healthy mix of prep and urban inspirations, which define my style fairly well.

6. Bespoke Tailoring

I love tailored garments and the traditional culture they represent. It’s a skill and tradition I’ve been studying meticulously for years. Ultimately you need to know the rules before you can effectively bend or break them.

7. Nature’s Color Palettes

Color is a foundation of personal style and can make or break an outfit. Many guys struggle with putting colors together. My advice, take cues from nature to find combinations that are pleasing to the eye. We recently published an article on this here.

8. Kanye West

It’s important to have icons and observe how they present themselves through varying contexts. For all of his faults, Kanye has great taste in clothing in a way that pushes the boundaries but always stays true to himself. He was one of the pioneer influencers who brought street cred to high-fashion.

9. 1920s Gangsters

I sometimes fantasize about living in an era before the stigma of men being “over dressed”. When guys took pride in looking thoughtfully put-together, and the better they dressed, the tougher and more powerful they looked. I think we’re slowly getting back to this, as seen by the rise in popularity of period shows like Boardwalk Empire.

10. My Girlfriend Karyn

Like it or not, your significant other has a big impact on the way you present yourself. I value Karyn’s opinion because she has great taste, understands my point of view, and her advice always comes back to authenticity and refinement. She’s often reminding me that “less is more”.

Thanks for reading and Merry Christmas,

Dan & TSB